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who was in the same plight, proposed to join us; so we set off for an hour's walk, for the steamer was to start in that time, and if that was missed we should hardly be able to get home that night. Now four miles is not anything very dreadful to perform in an hour on a good road; but the Devonshire hills are famous, and very apt to cause a puffing and blowing, not quite conducive to comfort, and a dusty day made the matter worse. We met very few people, and did not see much in the way of scenery, and in rather less than the time arrived at Dartmouth. But we happened to be on the wrong side of the river! There was a tolerably broad piece of water to be crossed before we could reach the steamer, and she was letting off her superfluous steam, and loosing from the pier. Our hair did not turn white, it did not even bristle, but we felt very uncomfortable, and rushed immediately into a boat. But wind and tide were against us, of course, and the old man who propelled us was decidedly a screw; he was done up, and could hardly move an oar. last we landed, and directed by our companion, almost ran through the narrow streets of Dartmouth to the pier. The captain of the steamer saw us, so we then slackened our pace, and, walking majestically, stepped on board the vessel as the paddles revolved. We thought ourselves rather lucky. This had caused a slight heat, and as the wind was cold we went into the cabin and lay down on the sofa, to cool. After a time we admired the scenery, saw the devastation caused by a fire in a little village hard by, and thought the woods must look very pretty later in the year. So the time passed in this manner, and we arrived at Totness. Then we walked to the station, got into a train, and came back again home, tolerably pleased with the day's journey, but 'sold' about it, in some things. The sun was in bad temper, and did not show himself enough; indeed, he ought not to have allowed his celebrated quarrel with the man in the moon to get to such a pitch; he ought to have

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thought of his friends' comfort first, but didn't.

After all, how very different all the so-called warm places of England are when compared with the south of Europe. Everything is so uncertain in England-one day it freezes, the next the sun burns you up, and an east wind finishes up your cold and cough. You make all your out-door engagements with the proviso, 'If it is fine,' and the days appointed for pic-nics and fêtes are proverbially wet and dreary. It is a rare thing that a flower-show is enjoyed at the Botanic in London in fine weather; a heavy shower generally comes on towards the evening, just sufficient to drench everybody, and give work to the doctors. Nobody can go to these places prepared for wet, with a macintosh coat or cloak on, goloshes on the feet, and a waterproof hood for hat or bonnet; that would be simply ridiculous, and Aquarius takes a mean advantage of thin boots and 'lovely things in bonnets,' not to talk of marvellous dresses, and the dearest little lavender or stone-coloured gloves in the world. He is a sour old mortal, and likes to spoil sport.

One meets some very pleasant people at places intended for invalids, and habited by anybody who likes, and some very curious and rare, not to say unpleasant ones. When people choose to commence discussions entirely on their own responsibility, they must expect to find their opinions contrary to those of some persons present, and if they choose to become personal, and try to argue without the slightest regard to the first rules of logic, they had much better leave it alone, and not bring forward matters on which they have strong feelings, which allow of 'party' discussion. We don't mean to say that an Englishman dislikes a political 'argumentation,' but he is not usually bigoted about it, and generally knows, at all events, what is due to society and himself.

As we are writing on winter quarters, we may be permitted to say a few words on a rather dreary place we once honoured with our presence. It is a place not far from Toulon, in

the south of France, and may be known to many-Hyères.

On our way there we stayed at Toulon for the night, and found the inhabitants of the hotel rather, too regardless of soap and water, indeed, they seemed to consider these things as totally superfluous. We managed, however, to spend a 'lively' night, and went off by diligence in the morning, eastward. The town of Hyères, which is about three hours' journey from Toulon, consists of one long street for the aristocrats and a heap of dirty houses for the 'plebeians.' It is admirably adapted for those who like the 'mistral,' as this wind runs up the street with all its fury, so that you cannot go out without meeting it. At first we went to a large and palatial hotel, but soon discovered that charges were good and nothing else, and the discomfort was so marked that we soon left.

Between the sea and Hyères are about three miles of marshy land, covered with water in winter, and famous for wild ducks. There is too much miasma arising from these lowlands to make the place very healthy, and we have often wondered why invalids choose it as a winter residence. On our arrival we expected to find horses and carriages, and means of getting about the country, for it is certainly very pretty, and from the town, looking over the sea, with the island in the distance, it is really picturesque. To our horror, we discovered, first, that there were only two horses in the place; secondly, that both were lame; and thirdly, that donkeys were the only animals to be hired. Now, our legs are none of the shortest, and we had very serious doubts about the use of a donkey, for in many cases the fatigue of tying the limbs into a knot to escape touching the ground would be as fatiguing as walking.

There was no library in the place, no reading-room, and no well-sheltered promenade. The 'mistral' blew almost continuously, and the dust was terrible. It was decidedly dull and stupid.

There were a good many visitors, but most of them very ill, so ill

that they ought never to have come there. Walking parties were the fashion for those who were strong. We tried these once or twice, but found them very hard work, for some people could easily walk four and five hours at a time over the hills, and the rest felt obliged to follow. Then the ladies were far too much taken up with their studies to make things altogether pleasant. Was a pic-nic or expedition proposed, they must go to their German,' or their Hebrew' (for absolutely they had a Hebrew class), or any other of the things they happened to take a fancy to. No gentlemen were admitted, the only male being the curate, who superintended their studies. If they had not been so studious everything would have gone on better, but study took all the fun out of them.

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One day, however, we had a rather amusing expedition along the coast. Nearly twenty of us started, all mounted on donkeys, and a fine sight it was. We happened to have a small animal, of course, but for some time all went well. Sometimes one or two careless riders came to grief, and a few small boys who were of the party caused great excitement by their mad pranks; but at last we went on smoothly, once or twice even having a gallop. Now it happened that we waited for a minute or two to gather a flower, look after some specimen of coleoptera, or something of that sort, and then endeavoured to make the animal canter in order to overtake the main body; and he did canter for some time, very well too; but as our limbs are long, we were obliged to tuck them up on each side in an ungraceful, not to say uncomfortable manner, and stick on as well as was possible by the knees. To add to our discomfort the saddle slipped round every ten minutes. Of a sudden the wretched brute stopped-stopped as if he had been shot-put his head between his legs, and kicked like a thoroughbred. Of course we wereshot off. The saddle instantly turned round, and went on the brute's shoulders, and the next thing we remember was a vision of being jumped over by a hairy animal..

Then we got up and walked ignominiously on. Certainly everything was against a firm seat, and saddles do not, as a rule, hang on an animal's back by balance merely, for in this case the girths did the poor service of only preventing the saddle falling to the ground. Here was the animal capering about, and gradually getting nearer the party in front, and we were walking. We pass over the humiliating scene that ensued on reaching them. We then generously lent the donkey and the saddle to a small boy who was walking. He was instantly taken into a deep ditch, thrown, and covered with mud, and the donkey scrambled out and shook himself. However, he was ridden by all the youngsters in turn, and after that his spirits subsided. We lunched under some firs, and rambled along the beach, and returning home another way, came quite promiscuous,' as Mrs. Gamp says, on a small piece of water-a lagoon formed by the sea-and opening into it by a short canal.

We

could not very well go back, and the difficulty was how to go forward, for the donkeys would not face the water, and the ladies were alarmed. There was a small boat at the other end of the lagoon, belonging to the guard-house, and one adventurous spirit forced his donkey through the water and seized the boat, which took all the ladies over in good order. Then the gentlemen returned, and the animals were gradually forced into the water. One used the whip and two pushed, and although the wretched brutes resisted strenuously, human strength was too much for them, and they gradually slid into the water, and at once made the best of their way across, followed by us all in the boat. We could hardly walk for laughing, it was so inexpressibly ludicrous applying our shoulders to such low work, but all succeeded in the end. When we were across, a gendarme made his appearance, but he was soon pacified for the loan of his boat, and left cheerfully. Nothing more of moment occurred till we reached home.

We used to practise sometimes -with a revolver against the trees on

the beach. The magpies were disgusted, and were often nearly hit, but chattered louder than ever on these occasions.

There are wild boars in the mountains, and a few red-legged partridges in the lowlands, and lots of snakes everywhere. These latter are extremely plentiful, and it was rare to walk out without seeing half a dozen, some small and a few large

ones.

We remember having climbed to the top of a rocky hill one day, and were poking about for beetles or other insects, when we heard a most alarming 'hiss,' loud and close. We moved away, and began throwing stones into a few crevices in the rocks. To our surprise, hisses came from every hole, and we began to think we had come into a colony of snakes. Such was the case we suppose, as we saw the coils of one brute in a crevice, and might have seen others had we been so disposed. We knew not whether they were poisonous or not, and as we had no desire to sacrifice our valuable lives in the cause of science, we 'made tracks' down again, amidst a strange small chorus of hisses. We never heard so many at one time. They may have proceeded from small snakes, but it did not sound pleasant anyhow.

We changed soon to a French hotel, or rather a pension. Here we found much more comfort, and though everything was homely, and the people of the house easy and familiar, we got on very well. The Hôtel des Hespérides (what queer names the French sometimes choose!) was a small house, and there were only two or three visitors besides ourselves. The hostess was a lively old woman, full of gossip and talk, and 'mademoiselle,' her pretty daughter, had her full share of fun and gaiety. In the evenings we used to play sometimes at 'ouiste, as they called it, or dominoes, and otherwise improve our French by as much conversation as we could wish for. The ladies certainly were quite willing to talk, and liked being listened to. One or two lively Frenchmen formed part of our mess, and the discussions on every subject

were hot and exciting. They never forgot themselves, but rather liked a little argument, and, like most discussions, these usually ended in making each one more firmly wedded than ever to his own opinions, and more certain than before that his opponent couldn't argue at all.' However, we were comfortable in the Hespérides, and the charges were moderate. It would not have suited many people, for the habits were decidedly French; but for our own part, we think it a mistake to

search for English customs whenever one is abroad. One ought to accustom oneself, to a certain extent, to the habits of the people with whom one happens to be placed, and we know by experience it is conducive to much more comfort and good understanding between all parties.

A title says but little, we believe, and we must now cut short these rambling notes on 'Our Winter Quarters.'

H. J. C. B.

WAS IT TRUE?

WAS it true, or was I dreaming?

Did you love me, dear, that night?

Was it only fairest seeming,

Or as real as it was bright?

Did I feel your kisses falling-
Falling softly on my hair?
While a silence, soul-enthralling,
Held the pulses of the air.
Not a rose-leaf fluttered downwards
In the strange, electric calm;
Only just we two seemed living,
Breathing musky breaths of balm.
Overhead, the coming thunder;
Underneath, the lava crust;
Near at hand, the dead Pompeii,
With its story-telling dust.
Weird and ghost-like in its beauty
Lay the landscape at our feet,
While you wooed me in the poets'
Mystic numbers, as was meet.
But the downy mist has vanished,
Clear and hard the sunbeams glare;
And they burn away my picture,
Leaving only common air.
Only you can breathe upon it,
Bring its colours back again;

Only you can make it real

To the healing of my pain.
So, the sweetness and the sorrow,
I reserve them both for you;

If we only meet in Heaven,
I will ask you' Was it true?'

S.

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'Nellie and I were a school-girl pair,

And for ever to love was our vow;
By me she flaunts with a heartless stare,
I am not a "lady" now.

'Can it be to me that her beautiful face
Is purposely from me bent?

Oh! to think a single fall of her lace
Would pay us a year of rent!

• ONLY ten shillings a night,

Yet we value them every groat;

They will buy our mother a dress she needs,
Or Willie a winter coat.'

Only ten pitiful shillings a night!

God's love on thy golden head,

They are talents of silver in His great sight,

Since they pay for a family's bread!

ASTLEY H. BALDWIN

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