was the first of modern Alpine highways which connect North and South, and it formed the model for later undertakings of the same kind-Napoleon's decree had broken the ancient spell! Already the iron horse transports us with lightning speed to the foot of the Simplon, and in a few years will have made its way through the heart of the mountains. Along the slopes, in wide loops and intricate windings, now over meadow-land, now through woods, runs the boldly-planned mountain-road, which our eye can follow as far as the summit of the pass. When thunder-storms break over us and grey clouds glide ghost-like along the cliffy steeps, only here and there a huge rocky peak is seen rising above the sea of mist. At such a time the aspect presented by this mountainous landscape has a charm of its own; especially if the traveller is fortunate enough to see his shadow, surrounded by a many-coloured halo and enlarged to gigantic proportions, cast upon the storm clouds in front. of him by the sun in his rear. In winter passengers and luggage are transferred from the unwieldy diligence into little sledges, each seating but one person. When the weather is fine the journey is really a most enjoyable one. It is otherwise after a fresh fall of snow, or when the cold north wind is blowing, and avalanches are descending from the barren mountain-sides, threatening to smother the traveller in their chill embraces. At such time the cavalcade is headed by the triangular snow plough drawn by five or six horses. From time to time it happens that one such caravan is snowed up for one or more days, either in the hospice on the summit or in one of the shelter-houses, which are placed at much shorter intervals apart in the dangerous region. It was in the middle of May, 1800, that Napoleon crossed the Great St. Bernard with his army. The hardships and dangers which the troops encountered were innumerable, and extraordinary THE "WILD SUN" SEEN FROM THE CHAPEL IN DER BLEICHEN," SIMPLON ROAD. obstacles had to be overcome in order to cross the lofty pass, which, being more than 8,000 feet in altitude, is not free from snow until late in the summer. Owing to the difficulties experienced, the First Consul resolved to take in hand at once the construction of a carriage-road across the Simplon. In 1801 five thousand labourers were set to work on either side of the mountain, and by dint of indomitable courage and extraordinary exertions they evercame every obstacle and completed their task in the course of five summers. The expenses of the undertaking amounted to £280,000; 250 tons of powder were employed in blasting the galleries, which had a total length of 1,720 feet; 611 bridges had to be constructed. Napoleon's plan embraced the erection upon the summit of the Simplon of a hospice, which might in case of necessity serve as barracks. At present four of the brethren from the St. Bernard reside constantly in this desolate spot as delegates of the convent and devote themselves, like their fellows, to the relief of travellers in distress. Every year ten or twelve thousand strangers are supplied with food and lodging free of charge. Numerous dogs of the St. Bernard breed, really magnificent animals, are kept, and are sent out daily in winter during stormy weather in search of travellers needing assistance. At the highest elevation of the St. Bernard Pass, near the line of perpetual snow, is the Hospice or Monastery of St. Bernard, the highest dwelling in Europe. Here dwell a number of Augustinian monks assisted by lay brethren, celebrated with their dogs for rescuing travellers. In their hospice, at times, as many as five hundred or six hundred travellers have been accommodated at once. The snow around the hospice averages seven to eight feet in depth, and the drifts sometimes rest against it and accumulate to the height of about forty feet. The severest cold recorded is about twenty-nine degrees below zero, and the greatest heat sixty-eight degrees Fahrenheit. The route over the Pennine Alps, by the Great St. Bernard. was traversed by Roman armies under Charlemagne and Frederick Barbarossa, and as we have seen, in 1800, by a French army under Napoleon. In 962, St. Bernard de Menthon founded the monastery here. The inmates now consist of ten or fifteen Augustinian monks and seven attendants, whose office it is to receive and lodge strangers gratuitously, and to render assistance to travellers in danger during the snowy season, which here lasts nearly nine months. In this work of benevolence they are aided by the famous St. Bernard dogs whose kennels are well worth visiting. Their keen sense of smell enables them to track and discover travellers buried in the snow, numbers of whom have been rescued by these noble and sagacious animals. The stock is said to have come originally from the Spanish Pyrenees, but the genuine old breed is extinct. Of late years from 16,000 to 20,000 travellers have been annually accommodated, while the sum they have contributed barely amounts to what would be a moderate hotel-charge for a thousand guests. The expenses of the establishment are increasing. Provisions are generally brought from Aosta, and in July, August and September about twenty horses are employed daily in the transport of fuel from the Val Ferret, four hours distant. No reward but consciousness of their Christian duty nobly done could induce the self-sacrificing monks to stop in this desolation of the clouds and storm, to minister to the lost and worn-out traveller. At the mountain top, where the hospice stands, it is always, even in summer-time, cold and dreary and desolate. The monks go up in youth, but seldom withstand the severity of the |