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For who would not prefer the simple demeanour of unsophisticated nature to the false refinements of artificial manners!

It was impossible for travellers of taste, when in this vicinity, not to make a pilgrimage to the abbey of Eidsidlin, which contains the miraculous image of the Virgin Mary, so much the object of devotion among good Catholics. The ridiculous tales which are spread of the origin and rise of this abbey, are so many melancholy instances of the credulity of the darker ages; and if they are still in credit, it is because prejudice has become habitual, and superstition gains such strong hold in the minds of men.

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The church of the abbey is a large and magnificent building, but loaded with superfluous orIn an aisle, near the entrance, is a small elegant chapel of the Corinthian order, which forms the shrine of the Virgin. On the outside, an angel supports the following comfortable inscription:

Hic est plena remissio peccatorum omnium a culpa et pæna.

Within is the image of the Virgin, which vies with the lady of Loretto, in beauty of countenance, her face, as well as that of the child, being black. She is richly apparelled, however, and changes her vestments every week.

The valuables in the treasury are immense, consisting of the rich offerings of devotees, and many relics sumptuously ornamented. The miracles which the virgin has performed are said to be infinite; and they are as well attested as Catholic miracles generally are.

In this place there is a considerable traffic in rosaries, crosses and images; but amidst this superstitious trumpery, which are an insult on human reason, our author was pleased to find a good library, containing some fine editions of the classics.

The same evening they walked to Rapperschwyl. By the way they had a fine view of the lake of Zuric, and of the adjacent country. The prospect was heightened by the solemn stillness of the evening, the pellucid surface of the lake, and the tints of the setting sun. As they approached the lake, the rising moon formed another scene indeed, but not less affecting than the former.

A bridge, one thousand seven hundred paces long, is thrown over the narrowest part of the lake. The town is pleasantly situated on a neck of land, and is under the protection of Zuric, Berne, and Glarus. Over the gates is the subsequent inscription: Amicis Tutoribus floret libertas.

Next day they were sumptuously entertained at dinner, by the Capuchin friars at Rapperschwyl. It was one of their great festivals, and they regaled them with every variety of fish, which the lake and the neighbouring rivers supplied. The convent enjoys a romantic situation, on the edge of the water; and the cells of the monks, though small, are not inconvenient; but cleanliness which gives a charm to the humblest accommodations, is here as much disregarded, as if religion and filth were inseparable. What a strange idea of sanctity! as if dirt could be acceptable to the Deity.

After dinner, they set out for Zuric by water. The lake is about ten leagues long, and one broad. Its borders are thickly studded with villages and

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towns; and the adjacent country is in a high state of cultivation. To the south of the lake rise the stupendous mountains of Schweitz and Glarus, which present the most lively and diversified scenery.

Zuric, to its honour, was the first town in Switzerland that separated from the church of Rome, being converted by the meek and moderate Zuinglius, a man who did credit to Christianity, by his love of peace and hatred to strife. Far from supporting his peculiar dogmas with an intolerant zeal, he was persuaded, that, provided Christians could agree in the most essential articles, they ought meekly to bear with any difference on points controvertible, and which do not necessarily influence morals.

The canton of Zuric abounds in corn, wine, and excellent pasture. The population amounts to nearly one hundred and seventy-five thousand souls, of whom more than ten thousand reside in the capital. This great number of inhabitants, in proportion to the size of the canton, is owing to its trade; from which two-thirds of the people derive a subsistence. Thread, silk, and linen, are the principal manufactures.

The sovereign power resides exclusively in the burgesses of the town, who consist of about two thousand; and into this number, a new citizen has not been admitted during these last hundred and fifty years.

The burghers, beside the advantage of electing their magistrates, and of conducting the administration of affairs, enjoy the sole right of comAll strangers, and even subjects, being

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excluded from establishing manufactures in any part of the canton.

It is just subject of regret, that in Berne, as in most other states of Switzerland, there is no precise code of criminal law. The institutions of Charles V. or the Caroline code, are ostensibly followed; but on account of their obsolete usages and extreme severity, the sentence is ultimately left to the determination of the magistracy..... Hence, with the most perfect integrity, and the most upright intentions, it is almost impossible to avoid being biased by friendship and family connections.

Every judge, of delicacy and honour, would undoubtedly be pleased to administer justice according to known laws, and to be restrained from listening to party solicitations, and the impulses of private feelings.

The legislative authority is vested by the burghers in the council of two hundred, who are drawn from the thirteen tribes into which the burghers are distributed, and comprise the senate, or little council. This senate, including the two burgomasters, has jurisdiction in all civil and criminal cases. In the latter there is no appeal from their decision; nor any possibility of obtaining any reversal or mitigation. Such an institution ought necesarily to preclude severity of punishment; and could never be admitted in a state, where very disproportionate crimes are obnoxious to the same punishment.

The canton of Zuric is divided into districts or bailliages, governed by bailiffs, nominated by the Sovereign council. These subordinate officers

have considerable power; but the improper exercise of it is controuled by their superiors.

The city of Zuric is seated at the northern extremity of the lake, and occupies both sides of the rapid and transparent Limmat. Its environs are most delightful; consisting of an amphitheatre of hills, gradually sloping down to the water, embellished with plantations of vines and pastures, intermixed with innumerable villas, cottages, and hamlets. On the west is a bold and gloomy ridge of hills, stretching towards the Albis, and that chain of mountains which gradually unites with the Alps.

The town is divided into two parts, the most ancient division being surrounded with the same battlements and towers, which existed in the thirteenth century. The suburbs are strengthened by modern fortifications.

The public walk is pleasantly situated on a lawn, at the junction of the Limmat and the Sil, and is shaded by a double row of lime trees.

The inhabitants carry on various manufactures, the principal of which are those of linens, cottons, muslins, and silk-handkerchiefs. The streets are generally narrow; and the houses and public buildings accord rather with the simple and plain manners of the people, than with our ideas of a capital.

The environs are extremely populous, and are the principal residence of manufacturers and their labourers. This is no less conducive to health than pleasure; for it cannot fail to be injurious to both, to have numbers of artizans cooped up within the narrow limits of cities.

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