ate on justification, without explaining the methods of avoiding the former or obtaining the latter. In these parts the dress of the women is sin-. gular, and not unbecoming. It consists of a black or blue jacket, with red sleeves; striped blue and white petticoats; and a small black velvet cap, trimmed with gold or silver lace, with a black or white lace border hanging over the forehead. From St. Maurice, our author made an excursion to the Julian columns, which Schewzer supposes to have been erected by Julius Cæsar, in order to mark the limits of his conquest; and asserts that Ne plus ultra, and Omitto Rhetos indomitos, are inscribed upon them. They are of a circular shape, somewhat similar to Roman mile-stones, and are placed at about forty feet from each other. Their height above the ground is about four feet, and their circumference five. They have neither pedestal nor capital, and are flattish atop, with a round hole in the middle, about four inches diameter, and six deep. They are formed by art but in the rudest. manner. Mr. Coxe could not see the least trace. of any letters on them, though he examined them with particular attention. Near these stones is a piece of water, called the Julian Lake, supplied from a glacier on the superincumbent mountain. The Julian Alps produce grass, but little wood, an incontestible proof of their great elevation. They stopped at a cottage, the only house in the whole extent of these alps, and this is occupied only in summer. The tenants make large quantities of butter and cheese. Having taken a refreshing bowl of cream, they began to de-: scend; and observed numerous small streams, which form the first source of the Little Rhine. Soon after, they met with some benevolent friars, who offered them their house and dinner, and furnished our author with several particulars relative to the government of this district. The ride from St. Maurice to Zutz, through Celerina, Samada, Ponto, and Madulein, is extremely pleasant. These villages lie chiefly on the easy slopes of the mountains, gently rising above a plain, through which the Inn meanders. The Inn, during its progress in these parts, very unlike other alpine streams, directs its course through a cultivated and populous district, in an equable and unbroken stream. The country is picturesque, and its beauties are of a milder cast than are usual among the alps. The burghs, or villages, are pleasantly dotted about the plain, and contain from fifty to one hundred houses each. These habitations are uniformly neat. Indeed the spirit of neatness is every where perceptible in Upper Engadina. As our author was riding through Bever, the clergyman of the place, who was smoking his pipe at the door, stopped him with a compliment, and afterwards invited him to see his library. It consisted of some English books, and many in the Romansh language, particularly the Bible, printed at Coir, and dedicated to George II. when prince of Wales. He then accompanied our traveller a little way and shewed him a. single house, called Alles Angnes, where the deputies of the two communities of Upper Engadina assemble, for the purpose of deciding, in the last resort, appeals in civil causes. After crossing the Inn several times, they arrived at Zutz, which, though not the largest, is esteemed the principal place in this district. They immediately waited on M. Planta, formerly envoy from the republic of the Grisons to Venice, and who had been engaged in several important negociations. This gentleman accompanied them to the camp of Drusus, as it is called, where that distinguished general fought against, and conquered the Rhetians. The supposed remains of his camp consist of several deep pits, and a mound of earth, about thirty feet high, and sixty paces in circumference. These works did not appear to Mr. Coxe to be of Roman construction: probably they are nothing more than a rude fortification, thrown up during the turbulent times, when the barons of the country were engaged in perpetual acts of hostility; and have been ascribed to Drusus, from national vanity. The little burghs, situated in these parts, are all within a moderate walk of each other; and Mr. Coxe was so delighted with the country and its inhabitants, that he wished to prolong his stay among them. Hence his daily journeys were very short, and he generally procured an introduction to some person of note, at each stage. On his arrival at Scampf, he carried a letter of recommendation to M. Aporta, the clergyman of the place; a man of an illustrious family, but who, after a learned education, was glad to accept the cure of souls, with an income scarcely amounting to twenty pounds a year; yet his living is one of the best in Engadina. Being a man of literature, he has produced several valuable works; among others, the History of the Reformation among the Grisons, written in Latin, in a classical and perspicuous style. This publication, of such deep research and national importance, has never produced any emolument to the author; and Mr. Coxe says, he could not help looking up with reverence to a person, who, under so many disadvantages, could have the resolution to accomplish so much for the good of the public, rather than his own private interest. Upper Engadina is divided into two communities they have both, however, the same court of criminal justice, which is more equitably administered than in most of the jurisdictions of the Grisons; a circumstance arising from some excellent original institutions, which still remain here in force. Upper Engadina is a beautiful valley, but so elevated, that it produces nothing but pasture, and a small quantity of rye and barley. The winter is of long duration; and, even in summer, the air is so cold and piercing, that the corn is occasionally damaged by it. As the district does not yield sufficient to maintain the inhabitants, many of them migrate into foreign countries. The gentry pursue the military line; and others seek a living by the exercise of mechanic arts; by becoming petty dealers; by opening coffee-houses and cook-shops, in different parts of France and Italy. Generally two persons enter into partnership to carry on the same trade one stays at home, while the other attends to the foreign business for a year, when he is relieved by his partner, and returns to his family for the same term. These partners are generally as faithful as they are industrious; and annually bring considerable sums of money into their native district. Numerous flocks are fed in the Upper Alps, adjoining Engadina, and large quantities of butter and cheese are exported. In the autumn, when pasture begins to fail, a great part of the cattle is sent into the Tyrol, for sale. The inhabitants live much on salted meat; and their bread is baked in little round cakes, only twice or thrice a year. Hence, though not unpleasant to the taste, it becomes so hard, as sometimes to require being broken with a hatchet. Wine keeps here to a great age, and is neither scarce nor indifferent. The natives are remarkably polite and well bred, and possess a native civility, which inclines them to perform kind offices, with a promptness and pleasure that is delightful. Our author, indeed, was no less charmed with the manners of the people, than with the romantic scenery of the country. In his road to Lower Engadina, he passed near Brail, a small bridge thrown over a precipice, and overlooking a foaming cataract. This is the line of separation between the two districts. Beyond this bridge is a wild, and almost uninhabited, track of forest, which reaches to Cernetz. |