Cernetz stands in a rich plain, of small extent, bounded by two ridges of mountains, converging at both extremities. Wheat, barley, rye, and flax, are plentifully produced in this spot, and the air is sensibly more mild than in Upper Engadina. In this plain the Inn is joined by the large torrent Spalg, which descends from the mountains of Bormio. By the side of this torrent, and at the extremity of a narrow pass, Mr. Coxe observed a square tower, which, in 1624, the Marquis of Cœuvres garrisoned with a body of French and Grisons, in order to check the motions of the AusThe pass is trian army, posted near Munster. still farther fortified by a stone wall, carried from the foot of an inaccessible rock to the tower, and from thence to the torrent. The road from Cernetz to Schoul is a continual ascent and descent, so rocky and bad, that in eighteen hours riding they only advanced twenty miles. Suz is situated in a narrow pass between the river Inn and a contiguous ridge of rocks, a little beneath the ruins of an old castle; and adjoining is a small fertile plain, agreeably diversified with rock and forest scenery. The road to Adretz follows the course of the Inn, which murmurs below in a dark, narrow From Adchannel, and is heard, but not seen. retz they descended to the river Inn, which they crossed, and mounting a rapid ascent, passed through the straggling village of Trasp, and close to a castle of the same name, built on the highest point of a perpendicular rock. The formality of a garrison is observed in this castle by a single Austrian soldier. From Schuol to Remus, the mountains on the left slope gradually, and are richly cultivated : they produce great quantities of wheat, rye, barley, flax, and hemp, with pines, fir, and birch, intermixed with underwood. The ridges of mountains, on the right, beyond the Inn, are steep, and in many places perpendicular, with little appearance of vegetation. It being now harvest time, our author says he observed several clergymen employed in reaping the corn. Though it is a pity that the clergy of any country should be obliged to submit to servile drudgery, for want of a decent support ; yet, surely, they cannot be more innocently engaged, than in agriculture, which is at once salutary to health and self-enjoyment. : They stopped at Remus to bait, near which town is a ruined castle, which formerly belonged to the bishop of Coire, and was presented by one of them to the Plantas of Zutz; in right of which donation, they claim the privilege of administering the oath to the landamman of the district. The form of government in Lower Engadina is very complicated. It is divided into three communities, which send deputies to the general diet. In civil causes, there are two separate courts of justice, from which an appeal lies in the last resort to the civil tribunal of Sotto Fontana Merla. In criminal causes, there are likewise two distinct courts, but without appeal. Party runs very high both in Upper and Lower Engadina. In these districts, the two most considerable families are those of De Sallis and Planta, both divided into numerous collateral branches. The history of this country is full of the disputes and struggles between these rival houses, and presents, in many periods, little more than a disgusting and uniform picture of domestic feuds. Though Lower Engadina is incomparably the most fertile, yet the inhabitants are less industrious, and consequently poorer. In Upper Engadina, our traveller was always able to procure tolerable accommodations and provision, at the ordinary inns; but was often disappointed in this respect in the Lower. The villages are less commodious, and the houses are neither so clean nor comfortable. This difference arises, in some measure, from the nature of the country: Upper Engadina, yielding but few productions, the inhabitants are obliged to seek from without some means of subsistence; and industry, once excited, brings with it, as an attendant, opulence. On the contrary, the soil of Lower Engadina, fertile in all the fruits of the earth, imposes no necessity on the inhabitants of extraordinary exertion, nor drives them to emigration or foreign trade. Between Remus and St. Martin's Bridge, being overtaken by a storm of rain, Mr. Coxe took shelter in the cottage of an old woman, who received him with cheerful politeness. Besides the Romansh, she spoke German and Italian; and seemed to have received an education far above what her present situation would have indicated. On taking leave, after the storm ceased, our author returned due thanks for the hospitality he had received, and endeavoured to slip a piece of money into her hand; but which, he was surprised to find, she declined. These circumstances exciting his curiosity, he was induced to make some enquiries respecting the old lady; and discovered that she was of a good family in this country, and, that she had married a nobleman from Milan, with whom she lived in great harmony, till all her fortune was dissipated. He then quitted her, with a promise to return in a very short time; but from that day she never saw him, nor heard from him. It was, however, rumoured, that he had gone to Italy, and turned monk. Believing this intelligence to be true, his wife collected the scanty remains of her fortune, and retired to the cottage where Mr. Coxe found her. St. Martin's Bridge forms the boundary between Engadina and the Tyrol. Here the Inn quits the territory of the Grisons, and passing through Tyrol and the electorate of Bavaria, joins the Danube at Passau, with such a volume of water, as to equal, if not surpass, the cclebrated stream in which it loses its name. From Nanders they proceeded along a pleasant valley, bounded on the left by a ridge of mountains, which separates Tyrol from Engadina. At the end of this valley, they came to a gentle ascent, on the other side of which lies the lake that proves the first source of the Adige. In one of the villages in this vicinity they passed the night. Next morning, they started early, with an intention of reaching Bormio that day. The country was agreeable, and in a high state of cultivation. Beyond Mals, they turned short into the road that leads to the valley of Munster; and a little beyond Tauven, passed the barrier, and again entered the territory of the Grisons. They stopped at Munster to see a monastery for women, from which the town and valley derive their name. It is said to have been founded by Charlemagne. They could not be admitted within the walls, as being contrary to the rule of all nunneries; and therefore proceeded, almost immediately, to Santa Maria. The valley of Munster forms a community in the League of God's House. The people are divided into Catholics and Protestants; and the magistrates and judges are chosen equally from both parties, who live together in tolerable harmony. The passage from Santa Maria to Bormio was very tedious, and, in some seasons, is not unattended with danger. They ascended to the top of Mont Bralio, which body of alps is supposed to be mentioned by Tacitus, under the appellation of Juga Rhætica. Here they traced the torrent of Ramo, which falls into the Adige to its source; and a few paces beyond, they observed another torrent falling in a contrary direction, which gives rise to the Adda. From this point a descent commences, and continues, with little interruption, to Bormio. The tops of these mountains produce no wood, but afford excellent pasturage. The most elevated parts are composed of granite. In a short time they entered the country of Bormio, and, following the course of the Adda over a small plain, they again ascended, and travelled over as craggy and wild a track, to Bormio, as any in Switzerland; exhibiting huge piles of mishapen alps, and masses of ice and snow. |