hundred steps without passing the habitation of man. They found good accommodation at the inn; and next morning embarked and sailed for the island of Ufnau, which they reached in two hours. This is a pleasant island, belonging to the abbey of Einsidlin. It has only a single house, two barns, a chapel, in which mass is said twice a year. Within is the tomb of St. Alderic, who built a hermitage here, to which he retired. He died in 1473, and, according to an inscription, "was fed with bread from heaven, and walked on the surface of the waters."

This island is sometimes named from Huten, who, after a life of almost unparalelled vicissitudes, died in this obscure spot, in 1523, in the thirty-sixth year of his age. He was as remarkable for his genius and learning, as for his turbulence and presumption.

Having reimbarked, they soon landed again at Rapperschwyl, already mentioned; and continued ascending amidst hanging inclosures of pasturage and corn, commanding the most enchanting views.

About mid day they arrived at Grunengen, a small burgh, and capital of a bailliage. The bailiff resides in the castle, which stands on an elevated rock, with an extensive prospect, of various features.

From Grunengen they pursued their course through lanes, fields, and inclosures, midst a fertile track. As the setting sun was sinking below the horizon, they frequently looked back upon the distant Alps, whose lower parts were no longer illuminated by the orb of day, while their summits were

Arrayed with reflected purple and gold,
And colours dipt in heav'n.

MILTON.

They took up their lodgings for the night at Ustar, and, with the rising sun, walked to the castle. It is proudly seated on an elevated rock, planted to its very summit with vines; and commands a most extensive view, in which Jura, and the mountains of the Black Forest, are prominent features.

From Ustar they crossed the fields to Grieffen, pleasantly situated on a small promontory, embasomed in a wood; and landed at the northern extremity of the lake of Grieffen. Proceeding through a country uniformly delightful and picturesque, they stopped at the parsonage of a small village. The clergyman's two daughters, about fifteen or sixteen years of age, politely brought milk and cherries for their refreshment. They were neatly dressed in straw hats, with their shift sleeves tied above the elbows, after the simple manner of the peasant girls.

From this retreat of innocence and simplicity* they ascended about a mile, when the view of Zuric, the lake, and environs, burst on their enraptured senses.

An expedition to the summit of Lagerberg was no less agreeable than the former. The fields were enlivened with numerous parties employed in harvest work. Oxen were chiefly used for draught, harnessed like horses. This practice has been partially introduced into England; and were it more general, which, it is hoped in time

* It is impossible to record the easy manner in which strangers are entertained in those simple regions, without imprecating that vicious and expensive refinement, which has taken place in our own island. Here all hospitality is destroyed by the introduction of luxury, which is equally inimical to society and philanthropy.

it will become, it would not only lessen the expence of farming, but diminish the price of provisions.

A few miles from Zuric, they passed through the village of Affholteren, and gently ascended to New Regensberg, which stands on an elevation at the foot of the Lagerberg. The castle was formerly of great strength, and frequently defied the attacks of Zuric.

The rock, on which Regensberg is built, forms the eastern extremity of that vast chain of mountains, known by the general appellation of Jura.

They now advanced through cultivated inclosures, and afterwards through forests of pine, fir, and beech, till they reached the highest point of Lagerberg, on which stands a signal house. From this spot, which overlooks the whole country, is one of the most extensive and uninterrupted prospects to be seen in Switzerland.

The beauty and sublimity of the landscapes detained them here till the close of evening, when they began to descend, and did not arrive at Zuric before the gloom of night had overspread the horizon.

Our author next set out for Winterthur, distant about twelve miles from Zuric, a town, which, though situated in the canton, retains its own laws, has its own magistrates, and preserves its original independence. It was formerly governed by its own counts, but at last fell under the protection of Zuric.

The principal manufactures of this place are muslins, printed cottons, and cloths. Some vitriol works are also carried on here with considerable

success. The inhabitants amount to about two thousand.

In the vicinity is the site of the ancient Vitodurum, where a great number of Roman coins and medals have been dug up. No other re

mains of its former consequence subsist, but the foundations of the ancient walls.

The castle of Kyburgh, towering on the summit of an eminence which overlooks Winterthur and the adjacent district, is a picturesque object; and is signalized in the history of this country, during the turbulent period which preceded and followed the interregnum of the empire.... Part of this fabric is ancient, and part is modern. A bailiff resides here, who possesses very extensive powers.

From Winterthur they travelled to Frauenfield, a small town, the capital of Thurgau. It contains about one thousand inhabitants, and is chiefly remarkable for being the place where, since 1712, the deputies of the Swiss cantons assemble in general diet.

Instead of following the usual route by land, from Zurich to Basle, they proceeded the greatest part of the way by water. They embarked in the afternoon on the Limmat, the navigation of which has been represented as dangerous; but this can only happen during the melting of the snows, or after violent rains, unless occasioned by the negligence or inexperience of the boat

men.

The boat in which they sailed was flat-bottomed and long, and was rowed, or rather steered, by three watermen, who advanced at the rate of from six to ten miles an hour. The banks of the Lim

mat were at first flat, but afterwards rose into hills, clothed with pasture and wood, or divided into vineyards; at last they became quite perpendicular, and were fringed to the water's edge with pendant trees.

About a mile from Baden, they shot under the bridge of Wettingen, with such velocity, that in the moment Mr. Coxe was admiring its bold projection on one side, he instantly found himself on the other. This admirable piece of mechanism is of wood, two hundred and forty feet in length, and suspended above twenty feet from the surface of the water. It was the last work of the self-taught artist, who constructed the bridge at Schaffhausen.

They landed at Baden, which derives its name from the neighbouring warm baths, mentioned by the ancients, under the names of Aquæ and Therma Helvetica.

Baden was a Roman fortress; and after being long subject to the German empire, at last became a member of the Helvetic confederacy.

The inhabitants elect their own magistrates, and have their respective judicial courts. The county, or bailliage, contains about twenty-four thousand persons, of both sexes and all ages.

From Baden they proceeded through an agreeable and sylvan country, for some way along the banks of the Limmat, and soon after crossed the Reus into the canton of Berne. Having traversed a plain, they arrived at the warm baths of Schintznach, celebrated for being the place where the Helvetic society first assembled. This society, composed of some of the most learned men in Switzerland, both of the catholic and re