the town of that name, celebrated for the battle which established the liberty of the Swiss. The anniversary of that memorable conflict, which happened on the 9th of July, 1386, is still commemorated with great solemnity, both at Sempach and Lucerne ; and supplies an inexhaustible subject for poetry and music.

Ón that anniversary, a large body of persons, of all ranks, assemble on the spot where the battle was fought. A priest ascends a pulpit, in the open air, and delivers a thanksgiving sermon on the successful efforts of their ancestors on that happy day, which ensured to their country liberty and independence.

Another priest reads a description of the battle, and enumerates the names of those brave Swiss who sacrificed their lives in the defence of freedom. They then repair to a small chapel, where masses are sung for the souls of the deceased, in which as many as can be admitted join; and the rest perform their devotions without, or on the field of battle, before four stone crosses.

The lake of Lucerne, from the sublimity, as well as variety, of its scenery, is perhaps the finest body of water in Switzerland. It is bounded towards the town of Lucerne, by cultivated hills, gradually sloping to the water, contrasted on the opposite bank by an enormous mass of steril craggy rocks. Mount Pilate rises boldly from the lake, and, according to General Pfiffer, its elevation is not less than six thousand feet. Another branch of the lake, called that of Schweitz, is environed by more lofty and more varied mountains; some covered to their very tops with the most vivid verdure; others perpendicular and

craggy; in one place forming vast amphitheatres of wood, in another jutting into the water in bold promontories.

On the eastern side lies the village of Gerisau, forming a republic of itself. Its whole territory is about two leagues in length and one in breadth; and the number of its inhabitants about one thousand two hundred. Our author was informed, that there was not a single horse in the state; and, indeed, it is almost impossible he could be used in it. This little republic, in which peace and comfort seem to reside, is under the protection of Lucerne, Uri, Schweitz, and Enderwalden.

To the ambitious, who judge of governments by power and extent of dominion, Gerisau may appear contemptible; but the smallest spot on earth, where civil liberty flourishes, cannot fail to interest those who know the true value of independence, and are convinced that happiness does not consist in grandeur and extensive empire.

Near the end of this branch of the lake lies the village of Brunnen, celebrated for the treaty concluded In 1315, between Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden. Here they landed, and walked to Schweitz, which stands on the slope of a hill, at the bottom of two high and rugged rocks. Its scite is extremely delightful. The church is a large magnificent building in the center of the

town.

Reimbarking at Brunnen, they soon entered the third branch of the lake, or that of Uri, the scenery of which is still more grand and impressive. During a navigation of nine miles, the rocks were so steep and close, that they did not

observe above four or five places where a landing would have been practicable. The rocks are

wholly composed of stones of the shape and size of bricks, so as to appear quite artificial. They rise to the height of sixty feet, and are frequently clothed with underwood and shrubs.

At Seelisberg they observed a small chapel, apparently inaccessible, and below it the little village of Gruti, where the three heroes of Switzerland are said to have taken reciprocal oaths of fidelity, when they planned the revolution that set their country free.

On the opposite side is a chapel, erected in honour of William Tell, on the spot where it is said he leaped from the boat, in which, he was conveying as a prisoner to Kussnacht. It is built upon a rock, projecting into the lake, under a hanging wood; a situation amid scenes so peculiarly striking and awful, as must rouse the most dull and torpid imagination. On the inside of this chapel, are coarsely painted the several actions of the deliverer of his country. As they stood viewing them, they observed the countenances of the watermen glistening with exultation; and they related with much spirit and sensibility the cruelties of Gesler, and the intrepidity of William Tell. Such a natural enthusiasm is highly honourable, and ought to be encouraged, when respect is paid to virtue.

Having landed at Fluellen, they walked to Altdorff, the capital burgh of the canton of Uri, situated in a narrow valley, almost wholly surrounded by stupendous mountains. It contains several neat and comfortable houses, the tops of which are covered with large stones, in order to prevent

their being carried away by those hurricanes, which are so frequent in mountainous regions.

The government of Uri and Schweitz, from the latter of which, as being one of the first assertors of liberty, the appellation of Switzerland is given to the whole country, is purely democratical. The supreme power resides in the inhabitants at large, who are divided into several communities, from which are chosen the councils of regency.

In the cantons of Uri and Underwalden, every burgher has a right to vote at the age of fourteen, and in Schweitz at fifteen. The councils of regency of Uri and Schweitz consist each of sixty members, and reside at the capital burghs. In this council the executive power is rested, and from this body the principal magistrates are chosen.

The two cantons contain about fifty thousand souls, and can furnish about twelve thousand militia. The same kind of soil and productions are common to both; the whole track is rugged and mountainous, consisting chiefly of pasture, and affording but little corn. Yet to the native,

Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms,
And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms.
And as a child, when scaring sounds molest,
Clings close and closer to the mother's breast;
So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind's roar,
But bind him to his native mountain more.

GOLDSMITH.

Every step they now took was, as it were, on sacred ground: monuments continually occured of those memorable battles, by which the Swiss

rescued themselves from oppression, and secured the enjoyment of their invaluable freedom.

On quitting Altdorff, they passed at first through a fertile grassy plain, in which the peasants were mowing their second crop of hay; and in about nine miles began ascending. The road winds continually along the steep sides of the mountains; and the Reuss in many places entirely fills up the bottom of the valley, which is very narrow. They were obliged to pass the river several times over wooden bridges of a single arch, and beheld it tumbling under their feet in channels, which it had formed through the solid rock. Innumerable torrents roared down the sides of the mountains, which in some places were bare, in others tufted with wood. The darkness and solitude of the forests, the occasional recurrence of verdure; immense fragments of rock, blended with enormous masses of ice, rendered the scene at once sublime and awful.

They passed the night at Wasen, a small village, and next morning advanced for some way on a rugged ascent, through the same romantic country as before. Scarcely could they walk a hundred yards without crossing several torrents, that devolved themselves from the tops of the mountains.

This being one of the great passes into Italy, they met many pack horses laden with merchandise; and as the road is in particular places very narrow, it required some dexterity to make the horses pass without jostling.

These roads, impending over precipices, cannot fail of inspiring terror into travellers unaccustomed to such a country. Hitherto, however,