of the weather in the plains the less said the better. The Bund, where the band plays, is very prettily laid out with ferneries, flower beds, &c. ; it is situated on the banks of the river. The Garrison School begins to-day, and it is amusing to see all the officers going off to it; they might be school boys, as they go off with books under their arms, and I told one of them that his happy days of childhood were beginning over again. They think it is all nonsense; but, I suppose, war is becoming more of a science, and all these examinations are necessary. The only fear is that they are overdoing it, because I do not think that the only requisite for an officer is book learning, and some men who have plenty of pluck and dash are not clever at books; however, it is one of Cardwell's ideas. How that man is disliked by both officers and soldiers. The men that come out here now as reliefs are simply laughed at by the old soldiers; mere boys-small, and badly formed; got from the back slums of the large cities. Putting the weather aside, I do not think I could exist in India during the rains, on account of the animals and b-gs that appear directly the lights are brought on the table. Last night, at dinner, it was simply disgustinghuge beetles, two inches long, flopped on the table, while smaller varieties swarmed, tumbled on your head, and all around, and fell on your plate; there is one beast that imparts such a flavour to your soup, that it almost makes you ill; I feel creepy and uncomfortable. The officers who have been in India a long time do not seem to mind-take them up in their fingers, and playfully remark, holding a thing that resembles a knuckle-duster in your face, "what fine antennæ.” The correct thing is to put them under a glass, and you see a row of wine glasses turned bottom up, each with a specimen of the insect world. Bets are made, knives put edge up on the table, and steeple-chases are held. I made a mess of bottling two; the real reason was, that I am afraid of them getting up my sleeve, as I am not yet sufficiently hardened. There was a general cry of horror, because I put my wine glass half on the back of JUNE.] THE MONSOON. 349 a monster that wriggled about, and I did not like to touch him ; the cruelty was not intended. The beetles sometimes literally take the obstacles on the fly, others crawl over; however, now. added to moisture, I feel if I had a swarm of animals crawling over me; but these are some of the pleasures of the rainy season in India; be thankful if you don't find scorpions in your boots, and snakes in your bed. Tuesday, 16th.-Spent the morning packing up and writing. In the afternoon went to a Garden Party at Government House. I gave Captain G a lift; rather slow; nothing done in the way of amusement, except the band. This was the first Garden Party of the season, and I heard it remarked that there was not a good show of "spins" for the first day—a bad look out for bachelors. At dinner I sat opposite to Mr. L-; he was regretting the absence of big beetles; horrid fellow, but he is an entomologist, I suppose. He said one of the monsters last night was a splendid specimen, as he walked off with a wine glass on his back, as if it had been nothing; I can't say that I noticed it. Wednesday, 17th.-Started at a quarter to five, and reached Bombay at eleven, in tcrrents of rain and wind. The monsoon has really come, I should fancy, and a regular burster. The roofs of the houses here seem to be rather slight, and so let in a good deal of moisture; and, of course, as there are no windows, but only lattice blinds, everything feels damp and sticky. Thermometer not below 82 at night; a horrid mouldy feeling, both as to one's self and surroundings. The only thing that it appears to suit are the insects, which swarm. I started out at one to enquire about the "Mongolia;" she is a slow, but comfortable boat. Few passengers, I believe; but, I fancy, to Aden it will be too rough to think of any amusement. We will, at least I shall, be most likely otherwise engaged. The ghauts from Poonah were looking prettier than when I went up a week ago; miniature water-falls, and everything looking green and fresh. They have began to plough the paddy fields, and sow the seed. Part of the embankment had been washed away by the rains, and we were delayed some time, as it was only just being repaired. The monsoon causes immense damage to railway lines, in carrying away embankments, &c. At Nynee Tal the rain is frightful, from all accounts-rain, rain, nothing but rain. I hope H- won't be washed away. Thursday, 18th. -Busy all day calling and buying various necessaries for the voyage; everything awfully dear, double the price to what they are in England. Had two invitations to dinner, but refused them, as it is awful weather, blowing and raining in sheets, not a bright prospect for to-morrow. As I heard a gentleman say to-day, that for three months (while the monsoon lasts) you feel as if you had been wrung out, no energy left, in fact one steams. Lunched with B, at the O.B.C. JUNE.] INDIA. 351 CHAPTER V. JOURNAL. Friday, June 19th.-The last view that I expected to have had of India ought to have been a fine one, as I sailed from Bombay, the Queen of Western India, but owing to the SouthWest monsoon that was blowing in all its fury, with sheets of rain, the lovely harbour, and all the islands and wooded promontories were enveloped in an impenetrable mist, in fact it was so bad that we had to anchor for the night. Still, I enjoyed the seven months spent in doing British India immensely; not only from the great variety of scenery that one sees, from the giants of the mountain world to the boundless plains, but also from the wonderful cities of the Great Mogul Emperors, and the remains of their peerless buildings, together with the Hindoo cities of Benares, &c. Added to this, the variety of races, with their different manners and customs. Altogether a more interesting country it would be impossible to visit, for anyone who was in search of something new and varied, always supposing he travels in the cold season. Besides all these attractions, there is the almost boundless hospitality that one meets with, which people say is dying out, and it may be so, but to one coming fresh from our tight little island the hospitality of the East surprises one. Then above all (as an Englishman) what strikes. me more forcibly than ever, is the marvellous manner in which England has improved and civilised the country. She rules it by the sword, but mitigates the wrong (if it is one) by doing everything in her power (by education and otherwise) to improve the status of the people at large; or, to quote from au American writer, who, in speaking of what the English Government has already accomplished for India, says: "It has reduced anarchy to order, given laws, established justice, protected the land from invasion, and prevented it from being ravaged by intestine wars. It has suppressed suttee and dacoity, forbidden human sacrifices, repressed infanticide, and made slavery illegal; it has woven a net-work of telegraphs round the Empire, from Galle to Peshawur and Peshawur to Rangoon. It has established a regular system of postage for letters, papers, and books, at low charges and uniform rates; it has improved roads, made canals, &c., railways, 5,000 miles of trunk roads, and so on. There are more Mahommedans under Queen Victoria's rule than under the Sultan; the former has 25,000,000, the latter 21,000,000; and there are more heathen under the same Christian Queen than any other ruler except the Emperor of China." This gives you some idea of the vastness of our Indian Empire; and as regards travelling one can do it with perfect safety anywhere, in fact much more so than in many parts of Italy or Greece; and, must I add, the streets of one or two of our large towns; and though I doubt whether some of the people and chief Rajahs are not burning to rise against us, I do not think that they have much chance, as all the arsenals throughout the country are guarded by British troops, and though the latter are few in number, what with their sniders, perfect discipline, and last but not least, railways, which will enable them to be moved rapidly from point to point, I fancy a mutiny would soon be put down, still; it is always well to be on our guard, and I have no doubt that Lord Napier, of Magdala, felt justified in saying, "that if one man of the 60,000 white |