tic instruction if maps were put on carpets, so that children might be taught to go from one point to another; and a manufacturer of those articles, who was present, engaged to try the experiment, if it should be found practicable.

CHAPTER VIII.

AYR-DUMFRIES-MAUSOLEUM OF BURNS-FUNERAL OF THE POET THE NEW MINISTER-SERVICE OF THE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND -DECORUM WORTHY OF IMITATION STRANRAER EDINBURGH THE CALTON HILL-LEITH—ARTHUR'S SEAT-HOLYROOD-DR. COMBE -THE PHRENOLOGISTS CANDID OPPONENT-VISIT TO GLASGOW-JOURNEY OF INFANTS-CURIOSITY-EXHIBITION AT THE WATERLOO ROOMS -GRATIFYING RESULT-FIRST EXAMINATION OF THE EDINBURGH SCHOOL-LORD CHIEF JUSTICE CLERK-SIR JOHN SINCLAIR ADMISSION OF NEW SCHOLARS ABERDEENJOSEPH LANCASTER SCHOOLS FOR ALL BRITISH AND FOREIGN SCHOOL SOCIETY.

IN my northern rambles, I visited Ayr, about two miles to the south of which Robert Burns was born, who said so finely and truly-"The poetic genius of my country found me, as the prophetic bard Elijah did Elisha, at the PLOUGH, and threw her inspiring MANTLE Over me." It has been remarked that there was something romantic in an incident which befel him in the first week of his existence; and which seemed almost prophetical of his erratic and boisterous The frail tenement in which he first saw the light, which had been erected by the hands of his father, gave way at midnight; and the infant with his mother were conveyed through a storm to a neighbouring cottage.

career.

146

DUMFRIES-MAUSOLEUM OF BURNS.

Unfortunately I arrived in this town at the time of the races. I lectured, however, in the Hall of the Academy to the satisfaction of those assembled, who expressed a hope that I would again visit them under more favourable circumstances.

Obliged by some letters of introduction to the Lord Provost, and several persons of influence, I went from thence to Dumfries. Here, in one of my rambles, I was attracted to the Mausoleum of the poet. It is erected on the most elevated part of the church-yard, and contains a fine bust of the bard, crowned by fame, with a plough beneath. The inscription, with singular bad taste, is in Latin, a language which he said was a fountain shut up from him," instead of in that of his native land, with which his name is identified. The assertion of one of his biographers cannot be disputed, that there was a far better epitaph in the one he wrote for himself:"

66

"The poor inhabitant below

Was quick to learn, and wise to know,
And keenly felt the friendly glow,

And softer flame,

But thoughtless follies laid him low,

And stain'd his name."

The whole is surrounded by a palisade, adorned with unusually fine Scotch thistles; the seeds of which are often brought to this country. The gate is kept by an aged woman; who, when I was there, was unhappily so much under the influence of whiskey, as to render her remarks unintelligible. A desk with a drawer contains an album for the names of visitors, over which I hastily glanced. I turned away, reflecting on the contrast between the poet's circumstances,

FUNERAL OF THE POET-THE NEW MINISTER. 147

living and dead :-the corpse of the exciseman was deemed worthy of a costly tomb! An unusual cir cumstance attended the funeral of Burns as well as his birth. While it was taking place, his widow was delivered of a son who did not long survive. Of her appearance after her confinement, Allan Cunningham observes:"A weeping widow and four helpless sons; they came into the streets in their mournings, and public sympathy was awakened afresh. I shall never forget the look of his boys, and the compassion they excited. The poet's life had not been without errors, and such errors too as a wife is slow in forgiving; but he was honoured then, and is honoured now; by the unalterable affection of his wife; and the world repays her prudence and her love by its regard and A subscription for the poet's family was commenced immediately after his death. Seven hundred pounds were collected in Scotland and England, and an addition was received from India, which, with the profits of Dr. Currie's edition of his works, formed a considerable amount. His widow still lives, I believe, in the house where her husband died, in a street to which the Dumfries magistracy have given the name of Burn's Street.'” As a stranger, I paid her a visit. She appeared about sixty years of age, and rather reluctant to engage in conversation; which was attributable, perhaps, to the annoyance of so many visitors. I therefore soon took my leave.

esteem.

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On the sabbath following my arrival, a new nister" was to preach his first sermon in the church, near which the mausoleum is placed. I went thither, and was amazed at the immense multitude assembled. Every part was crowded to excess long before the

148 SERVICE OF THE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND.

time for commencing the service. Not a few respectable women were standing in the aisles,—all the doors were thrown open, and the door-ways filled,—many persons were on the window-sills,-all anxious for a sight of the object of engrossing interest;-but all were still ;-nor was there throughout the slightest confusion; though not less than two thousand persons were crowded within the walls. The Lord Provost sat in the gallery opposite the pulpit, in a crimsoncovered seat.

At length, the minister entered, but not a buzz was heard. He rose and gave out the psalm, reading with much solemnity and propriety the verses that were to be sung. Every person seemed to have a book, and as soon as the page was announced, I was surprised by a rustling of leaves which somewhat resembled the fall of rain all the fingers of the congregation ap peared simultaneously employed, and here and there might be seen some venerable forms, with fine hoary ringlets, preceding the search for the psalm by the due adjustment of their spectacles. Then every eye seemed fastened on the book, and the first verse being read again, the precentor struck up the tune. The mode of doing so in Scotland is singular. I imagined at first the clerk was about to sing alone, but I soon found it was the practice for him to utter the first notes, and for the rest of the congregation, having heard one line sung to an end, and ascertained the pitch, then to strike in. Accordingly, as he approached the close of the line, there was a general

clearing of throats, and at the commencement of the second, the voices of the vast assemblage joined in, like the waters of a cataract suddenly increasing a