both horsemen and bowmen. As we rode through, the targets were suffering many punctures, and the diminutive war-steeds were lazily sipping the blackish snow-water, which flows in abundance, just now, from the mountains west of Chentu. Bevies of Tartar ladies were out visiting, and shuffled along the shaded streets in single file. They do not wear hats, except upon journeys, and trust alone to their oil-paper umbrellas for protection from the sun. Their shoes are pretty, but worn so clumsily as to spoil their effect. They are taller and more graceful than their Chinese sisters, and far more independent in their behaviour. As I sat in the entrance to their city, upon my return, waiting our tardy baggagemen, many of the fair young damsels stood about me with their brothers. I judge the ladies and girls have the full freedom of their own city, and that of the Chinese too, by the numbers seen there shopping. Chentu is in a vast plain, which gradually rises from south and east to the north and west. Our course was almost due west. After struggling through the compact and busy suburb, meeting all kinds of people, even to Thibetans, and vehicles such as are known in Western China, we found ourselves upon a wide, dusty road, with flowing streams on either side. Outside of the city, the cool north breeze swept over wheat fields which were now in full bloom, caught up clouds of the fine dust from the road and sifted it gently over the fertile plain. One is struck with the enormous wheelbarrow-loads of straw that are forced through the narrow streets, and the countless loads of tobacco wheeled along by men and boys. Tobacco is one of the great articles of production in this province; the consumption is enormous, as everybody smokes, women and children as much as men. Hundreds of men and boys parade the streets carrying long brass pipes and tobacco to minister to the wants of the populace, one short smoke costing a cash ( of a cent). The plain grows more attractive, if possible, as we near Pi-hsien. The fertile fields are well irrigated from the numerous streams which are directed from the main watercourses in every possible direction over the great expanse. The Chentu plain is something like a hundred miles long and sixty wide, varying greatly at different points. This wonderfully fertile valley is perfectly irrigated throughout its whole extent. Its productive capacity is simply enormous; scarcely a foot of waste land is visible anywhere. The climate, too, is so mild that the coldest weather impedes but little the growth of cereals and vegetables. It truly may be called the farmer's paradise. The farm-houses, as a rule, are embowered in dense groves; climbing shrubs and vines creep up the giant evergreens, staying themselves upon the topmost branches. I noticed one ancient Pehku tree that supported a wistaria vine that could not have been less than a foot in diameter at the trunk. This giant climber had taken firm hold upon every branch of the greater giant, and had formed a perfect network over its top, from which hung thousands of violet coloured clusters. We passed through three or four populous market towns ere we finished our afternoon journey of fifteen miles. Just at sunset our tired bearers entered the city and deposited us in a native hotel, which presented a rather forbidding aspect. After a little palaver we learned that there was a much better hotel at the west end of the city; hastening there we were fortunate to secure the main building for our accommodation, which we were glad to divide with a belated missionary of the China Inland Mission. It is my usual custom when stopping over night in such hotels -the very best China has to offer to send at once for several bundles of fresh rice straw, and spread it thickly over the dirtladen couch, then spread an oilcloth over all before making up my bed. The next morning was threatening; black clouds swept along before a strong wind, and a few drops of rain fell before we were upon the road. We were at the city gate about as soon as the creaking doors had been swung open, and made an excellent start by seven o'clock, when we halted for breakfast. We were ceremoniously ushered into the only first-class hotel the town supports; and with all deference to the one in the city of Pi, I must say this one was the cleanest; and I pass this judgment having seen the latter in broad daylight. We were sensible that our ascent was becoming rapid, from the fact that the streams had lost their sluggishness, and rushed, in instances, over cascades; still no hills were in sight. About ten o'clock the clouds lifted, the breeze subsided, and the mountains forming the rim of this basin plain appeared in the rear of Kwanhsien. Two hours of fast walking brought us into the celebrated city, where the river which has run a compact stream from Thibet, girt and defended by the everlasting hills, disem bogues its precious waters upon the richest plain of Eastern Asia, and perhaps of the world. One half takes the right, the other the left; both divide and subdivide until about fifteen fair-sized rivers course their way in circles, enriching millions of acres, forming a perfect net-work of feeders on every side, to irrigate every field in the vast plain, and to turn thousands of turbine wheels to grind the grain for millions of men and animals. These waters are gradually collected at the southern end of the valley, and come together permanently a hundred miles below, at Kiangkao, except one branch, which flows in a wayward course to the north and east, and seeks its sister waters at Luchao, three hundred miles away. After such wonderful freaks were played by the water-nymphs, no wonder the ancient Chinaman concluded that a refractory dragon concealed himself in a fathomless pool near the disemboguement, and played his lawless pranks. But blessings be heaped upon the good Li-Er-Lang, whose other name was Ice (Ping), who came to the rescue in the Tsin dynasty, 200 B.C., renovated his life at that place, until his spiritual powers were adequate to cope with the dragon's wiles and depose him from his throne. All along the ages from thence, kings, princes, ministers and officials of every rank have done honour to the great man, until in later days his name has become King, and one of the most famous of Taoist temples, by munificent government gifts, has grown, by piecemeal, up the precipitous side of the mountain. I could but second the couplets written at the front of the temple, which read as follows: "Would that heaven always produced good men." "Would that men always performed good deeds." We ascended to the highest temple of the series, from whence we had a grand view of the river, rope bridges, mountains beyond, and the broad fields to the east. Just beyond the temple there is a rope bridge made of bamboo splints, woven into cables fifteen inches in circumference. These cables, ten in number, for the bottom of the bridge, are twelve hundred feet long, and attached at each end to stone shafts, which rest in sockets in a square tunnel of solid stone masonry, which may be tightened at pleasure by turning the shafts. These cables are stretched over four frames of heavy timbers, which answer for buttresses. On each side there are five cables of the same size and length for railings. Not far from this point within the city limits-was pointed out the encampment ground for the Mantsz. or border tribe men, who come from Sung-Pan and other points to trade during the winter months. On our return we met a few of these aborigines homeward bound, laden with heavy burdens. The Thibetans, SiFans and Mantsz are very much the same in looks and dress, taller and more muscular than the Chinese, more manly in behaviour, and filthier in clothing and person. The Thibetans we meet in Chentu and Kiating, mostly belonging to Embassies to Pekin, and merchants, are a rough, dirty set, and very ignorant. If Thibet has nothing better to offer in men and women she is poor indeed, as is her reputation among the Chinese. I was disappointed in not seeing the yak, as the herdsmen had driven the unbought ones back into the mountains for the summer. While in Kwan-hsien we put up at the best hotel in the city, and found our proprietor a genial, inquisitive fellow, very obliging and polite. Many travellers were coming and going, and we had little to complain of, except when they hitched their fractious steeds to our bedroom door. We took a run to Tien-Tsz-Tung, twenty miles to the south of the city, and enjoyed the trip very much. We had some excitement walking log bridges and climbing almost perpendicular peaks. Tien-Tsz-Tung (Master of Heaven's Grotto) is where the first Chang-Tien-Tsz (Master or Teacher of Heaven) over eighteen hundred years ago sat in meditation to obtain the Tao-perfect way. The temples at this point are dedicated to his memory. We received anything but a hearty reception from the indolent priests. When we stated that our sojourn was for a night only, they gave us a fairly good room. But when we broached the subject of renting a few rooms from them for the summer, they bristled with opposition, but were too diplomatic to say out-andout, We will not have you. They began by stating that the people of the vicinity were a robber lot, and that it would be very unsafe for us, and then hundred of pilgrims would come daily in the summer months, and there would not be a single room for us. We walked over the mountain peak after dinner, and just before sunset reached the foot-hills and the great temple, where resides the Taoist prior. We applied to him for a night's lodging, but he preferred not to be troubled, and we plodded on until dusk, finding only a miserable hamlet, where we, after much difficulty, secured four beds for thirteen men. We preferred to resign the four beds, after inspection, to our weary men, and extemporize for ourselves a bed out of poles and loose boards, which we were able to pick up. We put our bed in the court directly back of the Heavenly Well-an opening in the roof for light, rain, etc. The mouth of the well came within six feet of the square pool under the opening, making it rather an awkward room. Before ten o'clock we were in bed, and as the jabbering of the opium smokers ceased, and quiet began to reign within and without, the noiseless but almost tangible smells seemed to increase upon us until it became a serious question what to do to go out into country and sit in the moonlight, or struggle through the night with shut mouths and muffled noses. Just before midnight, as a restless sleep delivered us in part from outward surroundings, a deafening yell was sounded in my right ear, and the door a foot away flew open, and every opium smoker rushed forth, with pipes, clothes and everything they could lay hands on, crying, as they went, that the house was on fire. We found it only too true, and knew from the character of our house that ten minutes would suffice to make it a ruin. We hastily gathered up our effects and made a dash for the street, where we prepared to stand guard. Water and wind were in our favour, and with a good squad of workers the fire was soon put out, and we occupied again our famous couch. I cannot close without reverting to Kwan-hsien and its beautiful situation. It is an important centre for trade with the border tribes, and from its elevation, some six hundred feet above Chentu, it possesses an exceptionally cool and salubrious climate. The scenery within and without the city is a perpetual inspiration to one coming from the heated plain. Good-sized streams of pure water rush through some of the residential streets, with wellkept walks on either side. Men and boys were busy fishing in shady nooks. The mountain aspect recalled impressions I have of Kobe, Japan. It may not be going beyond the reasonable to prophesy that this will become not only our West China health resort, but educational centre. CHENTU, April 28th, 1894. SORROW. BY ANNIE CLARKE. THE hands that miss a long-loved clasp May soothe some mourner's pain, Play the high hypocrite, and seem And let not trouble reach thy face; Smile, though thy heart be sad ; Well mayest thou forget thyself, While God remembers thee; VICTORIA, B. C. |