of the Legion of Honor. It is. And may I ask how it was obtained? He was three times wounded in 1848 (I suppose upon the downfall of Louis Philippe; but he must have been young then). He says that both his father and mother were with the army, and so he was enfant taube, an expression which I do not understand; but I say, "So you are son of the regiment?" which does not appear to displease him.

I see at the end of a vista a distant building with a large dome. I am told that it is the Pantheon. I have long heard of that temple to all the gods, and so, instead of going to the Louvre to-day, I think that I will saunter to this building so celebrated in their first Revolution of 1789. Popularly it is the Pantheon, but clerically is it not the church of St. Genevieve? It seems to be a jumble of Republicanism and Catholicism. Within are the confessional boxes; without, the carved façade and the gilt inscription, "To great men from a great country." On high within are large paintings, inscribed "Death," "The Fatherland," and in contrast is a great mural picture, with the inscription, in Roman letters, "In the year CDXXIX., St. Germain of Auxerre and St. Loup of Troyes, in going to England to combat the Pelagian heresy, arrive at the environs of Nanterre. In the crowd that runs to meet them, St. Germain perceives a child who is marked to his eye with the divine seal. He questions her, and foretells to her parents the high destiny to which she is called. This child was St. Genevieve, patroness of Paris." A notice upon the outside of the Pantheon, of tickets for visiting the vault and the dome, with the price added, is in the English language; which fact is suggestive.

In quitting the Pantheon I see two old buildings near

by, and ask their names from a young and well-dressed woman. She says that one is the College Henry IV., and the other is the Church of St. Genevieve; but as regards the latter, I am sure that she is wrong. I enter this ancient structure, and find among many other things a little tablet on the wall, with this modern inscription, "Gratitude to the Virgin Mary. I invoked her, and she granted my prayer. A. L. May 23, 1871." There are other tablets, but I see none of a later date than 1874. Some of the paintings here, as that of the annunciation, the offerings of the wise men, etc., are not disfigured by the brass plates, as I call them, which, to represent glories, are painted around some heads I saw at the Exposition; but in one of the chapels of this church,-I think it is of the Ten Thousand Chevaliers, can be seen plenty of these unnatural things around the heads of the ancient knights. As to the name of this venerable pile, we learn from an old tablet that during the reign of Louis the Just, the XIII., it was consecrated under the invocation of the first martyr, St. Stephen; doubtless it is the Church of St. Stephen of the Mount (St. Etienne du Mont). A young man of about twenty-three comes into the church with a portfolio under his arm, whence I suppose him to be a student; he kneels devoutly for a little while, and then goes away. In this ancient building Catholicism may be seen in a venerable form. A nice-looking priest with gray hair is hastening to confess some women. I walk around the church, and find seven confessional boxes in as many different chapels, railed off from the body of the church. The door of one box stands open, and I see the woman kneeling within. In the church is a notice, "Association of prayers for easing souls in purgatory." Also a tablet bears the following inscription, "Work of the propagation of the

faith, founded in 1822, and spread over the whole world. Prayers and subscriptions destined to aid Catholic missionaries going at the peril of their life to carry faith and civilization among infidel nations. Prayers, one Lord's Prayer and one Hail Mary, each day, and the invocation, St. Francis Xavier, pray for us! Subscription, one sous a week. Once in two months, annals relating the travels and the labors of missionaries are distributed, and giving a detailed account of receipts and expenses." In one of the chapels I come upon an interesting scene,-a baptism. The nice little baby behaves very well; the company appear to be in moderate circumstances. The priest seems about forty, and is rather good-looking. His head indicates intelligence. He goes rapidly over the service, apparently in Latin; but when he comes to the creed the father or godfather (for I am so ignorant I know not which) has to repeat it in French. The little one takes the salt into its mouth, receives the oil of the chrism, and has water poured upon its head three times, in the name of the Father, etc., and is named Caroline; then there is a signing in one or two books, and one of the men takes off his glove and puts his hand into his pocket, and hands something to the priest's assistant, who seems pleased, and the certificate is being prepared as I leave. In quitting the church, I see upon the street a monk in more showy vestments than most of the churchmen,-in black, with cream color or pale buff. I am told that he is a Dominican, and that they have a house at Les Carmes. Close by is a large old square tower, and on the door of the building connected with it I read Henry IV. Lyceum,-Lycée Henri Quatre. I step into the door, but am not allowed to proceed farther than a court-yard, where it appears that some of the boys are receiving their parents or friends. It is now Saturday

afternoon. Riding home in the omnibus, I meet a nicelooking colored woman, neatly dressed and very ladylike in her behavior; she is companion or attendant of a boy of about fifteen, dressed in a Lycée uniform. She is from South America, and cannot speak English. The lad is eating his bread and meat in the omnibus, as if he had been obliged to hurry away from school. He is quite open and pleasant, and tells me that he is from Venezuela, but he has not a Spanish look, having light eyes. His talk is very hard for me to understand, perhaps from the Spanish accent; he may be the son of some person of wealth or importance, who has brought him or sent him to be taught in Paris. Now I am not so much surprised that people should ask me from what part of America I come. At the Exposition I see a guard of the section of South America, bearing upon his cap the words Latin America,―Amérique Latine. And this reminds me that while in Paris I heard Mr. Carpentier speak of a literary society for the Latin races only. But this Mr. Carpentier does not approve; he wishes to unite Europe.

This evening, May 11th, I attend a lecture, they call it a confèrence. The hall is a pretty one, the ceiling not very high, but it and the walls are ornamented somewhat like our theatres. It looks as if lighted with short candles, but when the gas is turned up I perceive that they are jets. At this conference several ladies sit upon the platform; but I believe this is quite unusual in Paris. I am introduced to Monsieur and Madame G. He is not a large man, but he is a great Phalansterian, or Fourierite, and addresses me upon the subject before the lecture begins. I afterwards hear that Mr. and Mrs. G. are rentiers, they live on the interest of their money; that they are very active in good works or in progress, and that they are united; wherever

you see Madame G. you always see Mr. G. At the lecture we applaud, men and women. Occasionally there is spoken approval, "Well!" "Very well!" "Bravo!" The lecturer is a very gentlemanly man ; he has been a professor, but has had trouble on account of certain sentiments published in a book; he has lost his place, or has been removed. He speaks of America, of our country, and of emulating our example, and thinks they may yet excel us. After the lecture I shake hands with him, and in the antechamber tell him that I do not think they will excel us; that there are two points which we regard as of the highest importance, namely, the independence of church and state, and the entire liberty of the press. The slender, gentlemanly Frenchman answers not.

When we get home and talk upon this subject, Victor says, "Before we surpass America, some water will run under the bridge," which makes me laugh, for of course I am pleased.

One of the gentlemen whom I met at the lecture once lived in Algeria, and now exhibits Algerine cotton at the Exposition. I also heard Algiers mentioned at the Luxembourg gardens. A young lady spoke to me, and told me that she is the daughter of the Lutheran minister at whose home I sought board. She has five brothers, and three of them are pastors (the title here for Protestant ministers), and one of these is in Algeria. So this AfricanFrench colony must be of importance in their eyes.

Sunday, May 12th.-It has been suggested that we should go to the country this afternoon, but Victor is fatigued and occupied. Last evening he had to go early to the hall, and make preparations for the lecture. After the