published by Mr. Buisson, who was, I believe, at the head of their educational commission at Philadelphia. Miss S. thought it remarkable to find in this book of exercises, so much expression upon religious subjects. She also finds in one little essay, ideas which she would not have expected from the age of the writer,-such as, "The times that tried men's souls;" but I reply that such are some of our bywords, and that, instead of being a proof of elevation of ideas, they are rather a proof of poverty. This volume is presented to me by Miss S., and I take it to the North of France and into Belgium, lending or showing it to different persons, and at last send it to a young man in the centre

of France.

Miss S. accompanies me into the room where Miss Masson is giving a lesson in geography, partly upon IndoChina; and one of the pupils is drawing a map of the country, apparently from memory, upon the blackboard. Miss Masson accompanies the lesson with remarks on the manner of teaching. In this room are four charts of France,-magnificent ones, of different sizes. There are also one of Paris and its environs, one of the department of the Seine, and one of Europe; but no map of the world is to be seen. Were it not for Palestine and the French colonies, might they not say, "Europe is world enough for me"? As regards history, the pupils are instructed in that of France, of Greece and Rome, and of the East. They are not instructed in the history of any country of modern times, except as such history is connected with that of their own country. This seems like an example of how not to do it; but perhaps it belongs to the same class of ideas as teaching our young men Greek and Latin, instead of the modern languages. The instruction in French history is very minute; one of the pupils is called upon, and, taking

the teacher's place, gives a little recitation or lecture on the subject. But the most remarkable statement concerning this visit of mine is yet to come. I learn that these young women, who are to be teachers in Paris and its vicinity, cease to study the history of their own country at the year 1815.

With one of the persons in authority in this school I have an agreeable, though not a long, conversation upon the co-education of the sexes, so common in many of our States in schools of this grade; but she remarks that Frenchmen are too warm,-trop chauds; they are not like the English; and she thinks that there might be difficulties in practising it here. But if such is the disposition of Frenchmen, how does it happen that there are in France, as reported, eighteen thousand men who have taken the vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience? Eighteen thousand men belonging to the religious orders, besides the great mass of secular clergy, also unmarried!

Before I leave the normal school Miss S. shows me a dormitory, one great room with many beds, and a fine wash-room attached. Towards the centre of the sleepingroom is an oblong, encurtained space for the teacher. I find a disadvantage in a public wash-room for so many young women. In the great normal school at Millersville, in my own State, only two pupils sleep in a room, and here can have water and other requisites for the toilet. this latter school is not gratuitous.

But

I see a handbill posted which offers the following inducements for Sunday, June 9, Pentecost-day, or, as we say, Whitsunday: "Communal festival of Nanterre. At two o'clock very precisely the ceremony of crowning a

winner of the rose." (This is a prize of virtue.) The ceremony is to be held in the church of Nanterre, with the assistance of the communal band. "Brilliant illuminations by Madame Widow Gaudry, getter-up of public festivals. Great ball, Lemaistre the son." These are part of the inducements offered to citizens of Paris to go to Nanterre in balmy June. If you prefer Sunday the 16th, you may have at ten in the morning the solemn annual mass of the mutual aid society of St. Genevieve, and in the afternoon an instrumental concert, divers games for young men and young ladies, and a grand ball.

Another handbill informs us that on Sunday, June 9, Father Hyacinth Loison will speak upon the harmony of Christianity and civilization. First-class ticket, three

francs; at the office, two francs.

My cobbler tells me that the bacon of America can be bought at twelve sous the French pound, while the French is selling at twenty-six sous. He says that our leather is not so good as theirs; it is cheaper, but they do not use it at Paris.

Victor has an herb-box,-quite a handsome one, like a work-box with divisions,-which, he says, contains all those things good for the health; which are marsh-mallow root, chamomile, tails of cherries, tails of gooseberries, mallow blossoms, marsh-mallow blossoms, dog's grass, linden, violets, and orange leaves. Tails of cherries of course are stems. They talk much about tails at Paris, as the tail of the saucepan, and they form themselves into a tail when a crowd wishes to enter a public place.

Victor tells me that if I sleep with my window open, the

bats will come in and pick my eyes.

I should have an

swered that I would sleep with them shut.

Madame Leblanc shows me a very elegant silk, of a very handsome color, a sort of pearl, or about that of the garden flower-de-luce. It is trimmed with lace, and cost when made over one hundred dollars. (It will be remembered that silks of the same quality are cheaper in France; on board ship I hear that the duty on silks brought into our country is sixty per cent.) This was madame's weddingdress, which she wore to the mayor's office. She thinks that there were two hundred persons to see them married, and then the wedded pair went to Mr. Carpentier's to dinner. She adds that Mr. Carpentier was Victor's witness, and the fourth person at the dinner was her witness. They were married at the mayor's only. It will be remembered that the marriage at the mayor's office is the only legal one; but it is the correct thing in the eyes of the world to be married at church also. Victor complains to me of one of his acquaintances, who had told him that he would not be married religiously, and then was thus married.

I do not remember any Frenchman interested in phrenology, even when applied only to the division between the perceptive and reflective organs. Among the persons who were at Victor's home during my stay in Paris was a young student of medicine, who seemed to me to have the organ of locality remarkably developed. He admitted that he could readily find places, but he and Victor asked me whether I believed in palmistry or in metempsychosis. I find French heads almost universally developed in the perceptives or the lower part of the forehead, and I wonder whether this gives them their admirable power of arrange

ment. I see very, very few top-heavy foreheads here. They have some men of very fine appearance. As regards phrenology, however, I meet at the house of a friend an Italian gentleman, who is quite a contrast to these Frenchmen in his interest in the subject.

Several times I have seen the poor little old man with crooked legs, blue blouse, and brass badge on the arm who has charge of the third omnibus-horse, which is put on in mounting the incline of our street. Though the little man plods up, yet he can ride down. One morning I notice a wagon going up the same incline, holding three people returning from market with their baskets,-the middle one a solid brown peasant-woman,—the whole drawn by a persevering little beast of a donkey, who plods on as if it is the right thing. He is going home, and perhaps the load is lighter than in coming. The same day I observe three donkeys going up the street followed by a boy, part of them, or all, having bells on their necks; lately, too, I saw some who seemed to be going home alone. One of my friends tells me that she sees half a dozen a day; that they are taken to houses and milked into a bowl, and then sick people drink the milk warm.

CHAPTER XI.

Saturday, June 8th.-I have often met Madame Latour, and she has kindly invited me to visit her to-day. She is a widow without children, and has a tiny apartment or set of rooms looking out upon a square; she is delighted