THE NEW YORK ASTOR, LENOX AND Copyright, 1879, by PHEBE EARLE GIBBONS. PREFACE. IN going to Europe in the spring of 1878, my aim was, in part, to describe the citizen of Paris and the farmer of France. Endeavoring to act upon the principle that five lines upon the spot are worth pages of recollections, I brought back to this country a great quantity of notes. From these I have already prepared two brief articles for Harpers' Magazine; and in this volume I offer at much greater length the substance of my observations during my stay in France and brief visit to Belgium. Not often have I been obliged to rely on memory alone for my statements; but I crave indulgence for any faults that are found in this book, trusting that, as a picture of common life in the places that I visited, it will be found to be at least as accurate as the productions of the average tourist, and more complete. JUNE 2, 1879. 3 CONTENTS. Dieppe to Paris-A Parisian and his Residence-Seeking PAGE 13-24 The Wine-Shop-A Walk to the Exposition Grounds-Barrack 24-38 Exposition Opens-An Evening Visit-Mourning The Pro- fessor-Schools, Churches, Newspapers-The Exposition— Ecclesiastics-Restaurant Duval-College of St. Ignatius -A Public School-The Porter-A Private Family-The Catechism in Public Schools-The Press not Free-Pub- lic not admitted to Public Schools-The Deputy-Co- Statues and Paintings at the Exposition-A Live Group-Our Department Behindhand - Educational Exhibits - Book Notices-An American Lady in Paris-Lying-In Houses -The Milliner-The First Communion-Danger of being Run Over-Taxes-Red Republicans—Our Cellar-Porce- lain Stove-Soldiers-A Walk to the Luxembourg Palace -Mr. Gréard's Office-The Concierges, or Doorkeepers- The Luxembourg Gardens-The Pantheon-St. Étienne du - Clergy - Protestant Divisions-Cheap Washing-Ver- 66-79 An Asyle, or Infant School taught by Nuns-The Inspectress -Prices-Octrois-In a Cage-A Communal or Gram- mar School-Opinions on Religion-Separation of Bodies and Goods, and Divorce-One Coming-Catholic Repub- lics-Russian Sugar-Expenses of War, of Public Instruc- tion, etc.-An American Lady's Dwelling-A French A Sunday Morning-Pennsylvania Laws of Marriage and Divorce St. Augustine's Church — Asparagus Cold- MacMahon and Gambetta-Uniform-A Protestant Pub- lic School-Order—The Catechising at St. Augustine's, or |