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got dissatisfied and haughty, because they saw regulations going forward against their waste. It is very bad economy to buy bread, even if the bakers did not adulterate it. I saw bread baked in a family at Chatham, last summer, which was made better than baker's, at two-thirds of the price; and I found it would still have been cheaper had the flour been bought by the sack. The deleterious substances that are put into porter by the retailers, (even when the brewers are suspected of doing so likewise,) should bring families to the resolution of not allowing a drop of it to come into large establishments, which ought to brew their own from good malt and hops. And there are many economical methods of brewing good and nourishing materials for servants, and those of smaller incomes, receipts for which I have given. There is not a more exhausting expence on the middling and lower classes than that for malt liquors. I once saw a young woman with a fine child twenty months old in her arms, she was still nursing it. Her face was inflamed to a deep scarlet, but not bloated. I asked about the child, and, after some questions, I found she lived upon broiled meat and porter. When I attempted to dissuade her from this diet she turned to her husband, and said, "You know, Joey, how often I tell you I cannot drink a pint of it; for I am in a hot fever all night, and thirsty next day till dinner-time." "And why will you still drink it, since you are so reasonable? Take, then, only a small tea-cupful or less, and make negus of it, with a good deal of sugar and nutmeg, and your fever will decrease, you will have no thirst, and your natural colour will return." I had the pleasure of seeing my advice take effect in this as in many other instances. I recommended the porter negus, in order to wean her from the pure porter. She now takes gruel. I find that poor people (the women especially) prefer porter negus to porter, and afterwards gruel to either, as it admits of such variety in dressing. (See Receipts.)

* Cobbet's Cottage Economy, 2s. 6d. This is the best gift the lady of the manor could make to the cottagers, teaching them the best modes of brewing, baking, keeping cows, rearing pigs, bees, and poultry. The manner of sowing wheat to get the fine straw for hat-making, such as the Italians grow, &c. &c. besides much other useful information.

Cobbet's Art of Brewing.-The whole system of ale, table beer, and porter brewing, with names and proportions of materials used, cider, perry, and home-made wines.

Every family who brews ought to be in possession of this little treatise.

There would be a great saving in using rice, and grind ing it at home. The small rice, which is indeed the best, and if free from a musty smell, ought to be chosen. If bought in tierces, it may be had for little more than three halfpence a pound. Many sorts of nuts may be used instead of almonds. There is a time for buying in each article at the cheapest rate. A great deal of peculation is thus prevented in price, weight, and measures, as well as in waste of time: but whoever has the charge of such things ought to give them out with care. I have seen the consumption of potatoes reduced one half throughout the season by the housekeeper having the saucepan in which they were to be boiled brought as a measure. It was a good cook that gave me this hint. Of course, if the keys are trusted to servants, laying in large stores is perfect ruin. On hiring a housemaid, I asked her on what account she had left her last mistress, with whom she had been to Brighton, and who gave her an excellent character, she said that the lady, when she went to Brighton, took no other servant but her, and that the tradespeople brought in every day just what was necessary; so that when she had any friends to tea, she had nothing to give them. This plan in a town is the very best for those of small incomes, though it is subject to inconvenience and imposition; but a knowledge of the prices and weighing the articles will greatly obviate the evil.

One day a carpenter's bill appearing to be highly charged, I objected to it, and ordered it to be reduced. The servant said, (I believe unawares,) Oh, it is a true bill. What is meant by a true bill? I mean a printed one. To this I made no reply, as it immediately recalled the similarity of the hand-writing I had often paid bills in. This was a serious lesson.

I have been anxious to give proper receipts for children's food. Parents should be persuaded to give them oatmeal, which is far more nourishing than meat, when it agrees with them. A scale of the nutritive properties of different victuals is given, that mothers may be able to choose for their children. Meat inflames the blood, particularly so in some constitutions, not to say any thing

I have found from the enquiry this led to, that bad servants get fictitious bills made out for them.

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of (that first of objects with mothers) beauty. Lady MI know, considers good living the best receipt for good looks. Her ladyship's "good living" is however, I fear, far different from Daniel's pulse. Then, to be sure, we have only his word for the efficacy of his receipt. Let mothers try both.

The great object throughout has been not only to give the cook and housekeeper a knowledge of their office, but to give them lessons of economy, and instructions to assist in enlarging their ideas. These instructions their mistress ought sometimes to read to them.

It is the fault of many cooks to give servants their meals cold, or in a slovenly manner. This always brings disgrace upon the management of a house, and is attended with much waste: as in such cases the servants generally take all they can lay their hands on.

Finding it impossible to give a complete system of the economy of a table, and all that is necessary in French cookery, I have in many cases referred to Beauvilliers. The receipt of eastern and other foreign dishes I have picked up myself in my peregrinations, and from travellers and natives. Many of them have been dressed by native cooks for my own table, and I have found English dishes treated after these methods equally good.

In the oriental cookery, there is a marked distinction between the Hindoo and the Mahometan. The Hindoo is all pepper and sweet herbs, the Mahometan all sugar, fruit, and spice. The fare of the Bedoween Arabs is not coarse. The Arabs live principally upon mutton, pulse, coarse bread, fruit, and milk. Myriads of people live all their lives upon rice, without thinking of a change. How different are the English, and how inconsistent ! What one half of the community pays any price for, the other will not eat for pay.*

Many a mistress indulges her servants for the sake of a good report; but a character is a hard purchase from them, for which she may serve all her life, but for which they will not serve her one hour. I speak of servants

A gentleman travelling in Scotland, found in Aberdeen the turbot so cheap that he determined to remain some time there, and wishing his servants to enjoy that luxury with him, he ordered turbot and lobster sauce for them all. Some days after his coachman gave up his place, feigning some necessity to return to London. He was discharged. Another appeared to take his leave. The master asked what was the matter. The servants said, that though their master could live upon fish, they could not: so he very properly discharged them.

as I have found them, good and bad. The bad have prevailed, but I do not blame them; on the contrary I am truly grieved at their infatuation.

There is a silly vanity in the middling ranks of forcing themselves into the company of their superiors. They fix upon a rich, a noble, or a literary relation to assist at their entertainments, who, when they have no better engagement, honour their humble relatives; but will not scruple, in case of a better chance, to cause a card of apology to be conveyed to the lady, when all is expecta, tion for him in the drawing-room. The disappointment is great, and the chagrin of the lady damps all." It must be sickness, or some extraordinary event that could make him disappoint me." "There is no doubt of that, my dear," replies the good-natured husband. "Shall I ring for dinner?" "If you expect no one else," resumes the lady, trying to get into spirits. This, however, is the conduct of a man fresh from the university, or of one maturer in years, but not more so in the ways of societynot that of a gentleman. Every man knows his value in the different ranks which he frequents, and will never accept an invitation from an inferior that he does not mean to fulfil. A disappointment would be of little consequence to an equal, and of none to a superior. Thus people often spend their money very foolishly in boring their superiors.

By the reductions in their establishments, that many families were obliged to make at the conclusion of the late war, many, by their own confession, made great advance in happiness, being in spite of themselves disencumbered of a load of care. This is the remark of one whose calling frequently presented such examples to his view.

I give the following quotation from a writer of the sixteenth century, chiefly from the remark he makes on the carriage of the good wife, when every thing is not exactly such as her vanity would wish. Than this attempt at display, nothing can be more fertile in all sorts of unpleasant feeling. It is completely subversive of all the real pleasures of society, and there is certainly nothing like hospitality in the master of the feast. Perhaps it may be rather called hospitality in the guests, who fed him with approving of his goldsmith and cook.

Hospitality has hung itself in a halter of its own twisting. This passage will dispel any doubts the reader may entertain of the good cheer of our ancestors. We have

not even gained one course upon them.

In the conducting of good tables, sameness of ornament or of dishes should be carefully avoided; but as that subject will be often recurred to, I shall only make one remark here, to induce the mistress not to neglect it. She would not like that her guests should be betting, as they rolled along, on the particular dishes that she was to set before them. Another remark may be necessary, that some distinction ought to be made between dinners professedly different. Thus, a country gentleman meets a friend in town, who asks him to a family dinner. He, perhaps, is just come from placing a son at college, or a daughter at school. He considers the matter in his warm clothing-they are by themselves - they will receive me as we do one another in the country. He walks up stairs and finds a party of fashionables. Some titter, and others give way for fear of their dresses. I have seen much trifling distress from invitations of this kind to those that are unaccustomed to the etiquette of the present time.

Persons of smaller income require to give still more attention to management. They often, from their situation, have to pay much higher rents proportionally, than

"Is it for nothing that other countries, whom we upbraid with drunkenness, "call us bunster-bellied gluttons ? We make our greedy paunches pondering tubs "of beefe, and eat more meat at one meal than the Spaniard or Italian in a month. "Good threftie men, they drag out their dinner with sallets, and make madame "nature their best caterer. We must have our tables furnished like poulters' "stalls, or as if we were to victual Noah's ark, or else the good wife will not open "her mouth to bid one welcome. A stranger that should come to one of our mag"nificoe's houses, when dinner is set on the board, and he not yet set, would think "the good man of the house were a haberdasher of wilde fowle, or a merchant ven"ture of daintie meate that sells commodities of good chere by the great, and hath "traders in Arabia, Turkey, Egypt, and Barbary, to provide him of strange birds, "China mustard, and odde patterns to make custards by.

"Lord, what a coyle have we with this course and that course, remounting this "dish higher, and setting that lower, and making always the third? A generall "might in lesse space remove his campe than they stand disposing of their gluttony; and whereto tends all this gormandise but to give sleep gross humors to "feede on, to corrupt the brain, and make it unapt and unwieldy for any thing? "The Roman censors if they lighted on a fat corpulent man, they straight took 68 away his horse, and constrained him to go on foot; positively concluding his "carcasse was so puft up with gluttony or idleness. If we had such horse-takers "amongst us, and that surfeit swolne churles, who now ride on their foote cloath, "might be constrained to carry their flesh badges from place to place on foot, the "price of velvet would fall with their bellies. Plenus venter nil agit libenter, et "plures gula occidit quam gladius. A man is but his breath, and that may as well "be stopped by putting too much in his own mouth at once, as by receiving too "much from that of a cannon."

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