stirring it round two or three times with a spoon, that it may mix equally with the mass of milk; cover it with a sieve or towel; set it in winter in a warm room, and in summer in the dairy. In the morning, or by mid-day, it will be found to have the appearance of curds and whey: put it into a linen bag, and hang it up to drain off the whey till evening. Put the same quantity of warm milk again into the pan; proceed as before; but instead of the curd turned by rennet, make use of that which is in the bag. Go on repeating the process, employing always the last curd procured; and the fourth or fifth time you will produce perfect yahourt.

Perhaps in very cold weather a fire must be kept up through the night, in the room in which the milk is placed. It will be better for keeping one day; but it must not be stirred so as to break the curd. It will also be improved, by covering its surface with a piece of coarse muslin, over which spread sweet bran, an inch or two thick; because the bran will, in the course of twelve or twenty-four hours, absorb a great part of the whey.

When you have once obtained true yahourt leaven, you need not make fresh yahourt every day to preserve it, as it will keep for months, provided it be hung up in a bag.

The milk should be rich; sheep's milk is the best. Goats' milk is also preferable to that of cows. It may be eaten with sugar, and a very little orange-flower water; some people prefer it when the whey is drained off. In that state you may extract from it a tolerably good fresh butter, by mixing with it about as much moderately cold water as yahourt curd, and beating it a few minutes with a spoon.

Yahourt is of so easy digestion, that the weakest stomach will bear it.

It may therefore be often used as a cooling and highly-nutritious diet, in cases where milk, in any other form, would disagree.

The qualities of this preparation are so well attested, that it is worthy every physician's attention.

Cucumbers cut in slices, sprinkled with fine powdered mint, and put into the yahourt, make it delightfully cooling and refreshing.

Koumiss

It is astonishing how little koumiss is used, although its virtues are so well known in the cure of consumption and debility. 1

In the countries where koumiss is chiefly used, it is made of mare's milk; our prejudice prevents our using this milk, although the food of the animal is much the same as that of the ass, to which we have recourse.

This is pitiable, when an ass cannot be got, and a poor suffering patient is doomed, by prejudice or parsimony in horse-flesh, to linger and die. But why should the patient know whether it is mare's, ass's, or cow's milk?

Let it be well understood, that koumiss is nothing but fermented milk, by the following or like manner of preparation.

This receipt was procured from a Kalmuck Tartar of the Volga. In summer, it may be prepared in one day. Put in a little rennet, made of lamb's stomach (or any other), a bit of sour paste of rye flour, or a little old koumiss, but not so much as to curdle the milk; hang it up, and agitate it briskly for some time; let it repose, and agitate it in the same manner again and again, till it thickens; it is then ready for use. It may be hung in a quart or two-quart bottle.

Leave a little of the koumiss in the vessel, put new milk to it, and agitate it as above; it requires a certain heat to make it, which makes the operation tedious and often misgive when it is made in cold dairies. When it is made of cow's milk, it ought to be brought, by doublerefined sugar and warm water, as near to ass's or mare's milk, in taste and look, as possible.

Koumiss may be made every where, by the addition of a small quantity of acid, heat, and agitation, and is the best possible food for debilitated patients, as it does not curdle nor ferment upon the stomach; while, at the same time, it is composed partly of fermented spirits, which may be essential in that mixture to a debilitated system; as this is the manner of preparing milk for distilling in eastern countries.

kulan Corn, the Polenta of the Italians.

o the of the flour of the doura with some rasped cs, and beat it up with water until it becomes a og it for the oven; let it repose some time in a flat oil, cut it in pieces as beignets, and fry them in oil or Clashed batter: if no cheese has been put in the flour, Tasp soure cypress cheese over them,

There are fifty other ways, but this is the easiest for a voyage

Any dry fresh cheese will do.

The doura may be cooked in many excellent ways, in boats or at sea, to supply the place of bread, and puddings without eggs.

A simple and quick Method of dressing the Doura.

Make it as directed for oat or barley-meal porridge; to the last it bears a very great resemblance; mix it in water, boil and beat it well with a porridge-stick; it may be eaten hot with milk or butter, which is excellent. When to be used for bread or pudding, pour it out upon a cloth, and let it spread; when cold, gather the cloth about it, and slice as wanted.

When to be used as bread, slice and broil it; for pudding to eat with meat, slice, season, and fry it.

One of the Ways of dressing Doura in the Levant.

The doura, or Indian corn flour, must be sifted and mixed with cold water into a paste rather thicker than batter, but not quite so stiff as bread; mix it well with a spoon, and then put it on the fire to cook, stirring it round all the time, as hasty-pudding is made; work it very smooth, take it off, and make it into little cakes, about the size of a tea-cup, not thicker than a quarter of an inch; fry them in butter to eat hot; sugar may be sifted over them.

When as sweet pudding, marinade it in the juice of acid fruit, cinnamon, and sugar; fry it, and sift sugar over it.

In the south of France, they fry and put it in their ragouts.

Barley-meal, cooked as the doura, is excellent for flatulent stomachs.

To Grind the Doura, or Turkish Wheat Corn,

Requires the stones to be wide set for grinding, which is done very fine, there being little husk to sift out.

It keeps very well in the corn, but very ill in the flour; therefore this must be attended to in the supplies. The doura may be dressed in every way as barleymeal.

African Cuscussou.

Mix some of the finest dry sifted flour in a mixture of yolk of egg, warm water, and butter; or water, cream, or milk, and granulate it with the points of the fingers amongst dry flour, till it takes a proper consistency.

Prepare a fowl very nicely for boiling, boil the gizzard, slice it nicely, without detaching it, blanch the liver, put them into the wings, and lay the fowl into a saucepan that will just hold it, with a steamer fitted to it; season it with mace, white-pepper, and lemon zest; put in a little water or milk, and put the steamer over it, with the gra nulated flour or cuscussou; make it boil, and leave it in the embers to steam till it is thoroughly cooked; in the mean time prepare, according to the quantity, hard-boiled eggs, coloured with saffron; dish the fowl, pour the cuscussou over, and stick the eggs in at proper distances.

Any other meat or fish may be so cooked, or with rice, instead of the cuscussou.

In doing fish, which is excellent, it is necessary to put the cuscussou to simmer first over what the fish is to be dressed in, either seasoned stock or cream, and when ready, to put in the fish, which will cook in a short time. The hard eggs are equally good with the fish; dish in the same manner.

Sweet Cuscussou, as dressed at Morocco.*

Steam it with milk and sugar, and strew it over with cinnamon, or nutmeg and sugar. Like macaroni, it is so

The inhabitants of Morocco cover it with a great deal of spices, particularly cinnamon and sugar, and send it so dressed in presents to the women; but it is rather too high-spiced for an English taste.

delicate, that it is particularly adapted to sweets, white meats, fish, cheese, gourds, and apples, it being a dish of no expense, and particularly adapted, with fruit or vegetables, for children and invalids.

Cuscussou Fritters.

Prepare by steaming, put in some almond paste, plumped currants, sugar, a little minced marrow, or kidney fat, and lemon-juice, with a sufficient quantity of eggs and salt; drop them into hot dripping, fry a beautiful brown, drain upon a cloth before the fire, and sift sugar over them.

OBSERVATIONS UPON SALT.

The flavour of the common salt being much finer than that of the basket, induces me to give an easy method of purifying and heightening it still more. Pick it nicely, and put it into as much boiling water as will dissolve it; strain it through very thick linen, put it in a broad pan over a stove, hot table, hearth, or in the sun, to crystallise: do not put it into the oven, unless it is quite pure, as it will imbibe the taste of any thing that may be in it; the crystals will soon begin to shoot, if the operation is tedious. Some of the water may be poured into another pan; when the salt dries, roll it with a roller on a marble slab, or pound it; it will be as white as the basket salt, without its bitter.Any flavour or colour may be imparted to the waters, such as garlic, shalots, onions, cucumbers, celery, mint, spice, cochineal, juice of spinach, &c. &c.

In using salt, too little attention is paid to the quantity, which destroys the effects of the other seasoning; and often when a cook is at a loss to know what her sauce wants, it may be either over or under salted; if over, she is then to determine what will answer best for a corrective; oils, butter, mustard, yolk of eggs, cream, pulped fruit, vegetables, and acids may be used: sweet puddings require salt, and rice cannot be properly sweetened without it; this is very noticeable in curries, as the rice is seldom salted, and so much does the cook depend upon her curry powder, that she often forgets salt altogether; if it is rich, it is not much