Sweet Stuffing.

Suet, crums, or rice, and spices as above; salt, currants, and a little sugar or treacle, and finish as the others.

An excellent Stuffing for Geese.

Pare and core some apples, take a pound of them, half a pound of minced onions, one ounce fine minced sage, one clove of garlic, the juice of a Seville orange, some sugar, a little allspice and salt; mix in one quarter of a pound of very nice butter, and put it into the body of the goose.

If it is wanted to make the goose look handsome, put either a savory or sweet farce into the breast; tie the neck and rump very well upon the spit, to prevent the butter from running out.

This is an excellent stuffing for wild fowl or game; if not long enough kept, it tenders and gives flavour, and ought to be stuffed the night before; if too long kept, it reduces the haut-goût, which is sometimes too much at table; but in this case the birds should be basted till they are half done with vinegar and charcoal water, and then with butter. When wild fowl are in perfect order, they require no stuffing.

The above stuffing may have a proportion of bread crums and eggs added, and made into balls to garnish.

All farces, of whatever description, may be rolled into balls, pudding, flatted into cakes, or cut into any form whatever.

Fritures.

This receipt is worth notice. - Experience has taught that the fat taken from the stock-pot makes the best fritures. Where there is not any of this, its place is supplied by the rendered kidney fat of beef, which is better than the sain-doux, or hog's lard, which softens the paste; as, when heated, it swells, froths, and flies into the fire, which is dangerous; oil has nearly the same effect, and of course not less attended with danger, but it does not soften the fritures; other melted fats or suets have

nearly the same fault, and are very expensive. Therefore, for appearance, goodness, and economy, top-pot is the best, and next to it rendered beef kidney fat.

See Animal Fats.

Ragoût of Sweetbreads, &c.

Soak two sweetbreads in fresh water. To take out the blood, blanch them. Put into a stew-pan one or two carrots, two onions, some 'parings of veal, with a bunch of seasoned parsley and young onions; lay the sweetbread over them, cover them with a thin slice of bacon, moisten with one or two spoonfuls of bouillon; do not let them swim; cover them with buttered paper; let them boil; put them under the furnace, with fire over and under; let care be taken that they may not be overdone: when they are enough, take them out of their seasoning. If there is no sauce, let what they were cooked in be strained. But should they be for a blanc, mix a pat of butter in a little flour, and put it with some cooked mushrooms into the sauce; let the flour cook, skim, and add artichoke bottoms; cut the sweetbreads in slices, put them in, but do not let them boil. When ready to serve, thicken it with the yolks of one or two eggs, some fine minced parsley, lemon, or verjuice, adding a little butter to make it soft, if necessary.

Rabbit Pudding, à la Richelieu.

Prepare exactly for it as for quenelles, only use instead of panada the proper quantity of roasted potatoes; spread a little of this farce, about five inches long and above three inches broad, and half an inch thick, upon a cover, from which it may be slipped into a saucepan; lay upon the middle of it a salpiçon that the farce will cover; dip a knife in hot water, and raise the farce over it, and shape it into a pudding; butter the bottom of a saucepan, heat the cover, and slip in the pudding; pour boiling stock over; let them simmer without touching one another.

Let them cool, dip in egg crum, and fry or do them over hot cinders on a gridiron, and serve them in any nice sauce, or an oyster or mushroom ragoût, or glaze

them after they are poached, and serve them in rich brown butter or clear gravy-sauce.

Puddings of cray and other shell-fish make a quenelle farce of any kind of meat, conducted as above; only fill it with a salpiçon of the tails of cray-fish, mushrooms, and truffles, making them up and cooking them as the foregoing.

Bruise the shells, and make a butter of them, dip the puddings into it, crum them with fine white crums, and baste them with it; put them in the oven till they get a fine colour; mix the remainder of the butter into a nice gravy cream, sauce, or espagnole; let it be of a fine red colour, and pour it over the puddings.

This is a very excellent and much-esteemed dish, and may be made of oysters, muscles, crabs, or any other fish, with green olives, truffle, or anchovy sauce. White fish farce or quenelles ought always to have anchovies. Salpiçons may be made of whiting, turbot, mushrooms, truffles, &c. and cooked in espagnole.

Croquettes of every Thing.

Pick the sinews and skin off the meat of a cold roasted rabbit; cut it in small dices with mushrooms or truffles and fat livers; reduce a proper quantity of velounté to half glaze; add some minced parsley and scallions; let it cook six minutes longer, and put in the mince; it must not boil; stir it with a wooden spoon, pour it out, spread, and let it cool, make it up in any form and fry them; dress them on the dish, and serve hot.

Panada.

Panada is indispensable in making good farce of any kind; it is even better for it than Naples biscuit, and is made as follows:- Steep a sufficient quantity of good stale bread crum in cream or stock, set it over the fire in a saucepan, and work it with a wooden spoon till it is as smooth and dry as a stiff paste; let it cool, and beat it with a yolk or two, according to the quantity, in a mortar; it is then ready to be put into all kinds of farces.

An unexperienced cook will observe, that six minutes will cook parsley and scallions. This is the way she must pick up information; as one volume is far too little to contain all she ought to know on the subject.

White Bread Crums.

Put the crum of very white bread into a slow oven or screen, and let it dry without colour; beat and sift it, keep it in a close covered pan in a dry warm place; every thing looks well done with it; the crust may be dried, beaten, and sifted for frying and garnishing.

When crums are not prepared till wanted, the bread is never in a proper condition; so that the crums are not only coarse and vulgar, but a sponge for fat, which shows bad taste, as well as being wasteful.

Larding.

It is impossible to give such directions for larding as will enable a beginner to trust herself in the attempt without having seen it done, after which it is by no means difficult; yet in spite of which, chickens may be seen at the best tables with more lard upon them than would be sufficient for the breast of a turkey.

Bacon for larding ought to be firm and white. The sharpness of the instrument for cutting it is of moment, as well as the appropriate size in reference to what is to be larded. For large joints, the lard ought to be cut in proportion, and well rolled in spices and sweet herbs. Larding pins of various sizes are made for this purpose; but unless meats are nicely and equally done, they are at all times better without.

Ham, oysters, eels, parsley, fennel, anchovies, lemonpeel, truffles, morels, mushrooms, and other things, as well as bacon, are used for larding.

Boiled puddings, custards, &c. are larded with chips of citron, confected orange or lemon-peel, almonds, or any other nuts. Larding, though not expensive, contributes very essentially to the elegance of the table; but it requires the cook not only to understand it, but to be in constant practice, to be able to do it nicely.

Barbing

Is to cover with thin lard either for roasting or braising; as where three fowls are served roasted, one may be

larded and two barbed, or two may be larded and one barbed the same of chickens and other poultry.

If a cook has to prepare for a constant routine of company, tiffings, suppers, and children's dinners, she ought to keep a store of as many things as possible in readiness, as in such cases she will save time and much waste; for in making a dozen of custards there is as much waste, and particularly of time, as for three or four dozen, and also in most other little things.

The following ought always to be in readiness:

Top-pot, clarified butter, clarified dripping, hog's-lard, dried bread crums, fried bread crums, garnishings of all kinds, materials or ready cheese cakes, cases for patties, tarts, or tartlets, biscuits of all kinds, val-au-vents, or pastry for serving hot ragouts or preserves, pickles, preserved fruits, vinegars of all kinds, crystals of lemon, crystal acid, &c.

Butters of Fishes and Meats.

Potted meats, fishes, cheeses, eggs, &c.
Preserved, pickled, and buttered eggs.
Marrow-bones of all kinds.

Collars ditto.

Sauces of all kinds.

Cold pickled beef and ham.
Pickled fishes.

Sifted sugar, and fresh-cleaned fruits.

Washed rice, ground and rice flour, oatmeal, barley, &c. Such a larder is very economical in the above circumstances; as with this store in view, the judicious cook preserves every little nice thing that would be no saving if sent in to the hall table. The leg of a roasted fowl, with any other nice bit, may be preserved in clarified butter, as well as game and other meats. The bones and backs of game make excellent soups, salmis sauce, or stock for curries. A little bit of any fish may be pickled, and the juice and bones remaining in the dish ought to be added to the stock-pot.

To clarify Butter.

Set it before the fire, and when it melts (if it has the least taint, put into it a very nice well-browned toast or