CARVING.

Ir is scarcely necessary to say that carving is a requisite accomplishment for the mistress of a table; whether for appearance, or appropriate distribution, equally necessary to the plentiful or elegant repast, the conducting of which is her exclusive prerogative. It is, however, much neglected, although it gives infinite grace to the person, brings forward the amiable qualities, and prevents much awkward confusion, which often takes place from officious assistance, and more particularly as guests are ill-helped. The mistress is unavoidably chagrined, which unfits her, should that take place, from doing the honours of her table becomingly. All this, and much more inconvenience than is here represented, might be entirely obviated by a little attention to carving. If the lady does not visit the larder, she ought to have the joints that are to be served at table brought to her for inspection, till she acquires a perfect knowledge of them, examining them with attention, till she is able to find immediately the pieces, and to know what is esteemed, how many ways it may be cooked, to what uses it may be put to advantage in the different courses, with the proper sauces and vegetables. A knowledge of such things will soon not only make her an adept in this necessary accomplishment, but also an economist; because she will see that her table may be brought to look better upon half the expense; as the author labours to prove that every thing is equally good if properly prepared, and that often things much less expensive might answer better and that much may be done to lessen expense by the lady's eye, and by a faithful servant to take care of the things as they go from table. One instance of waste in eating may lead a mistress to attend to a thousand others. Some years ago, when great loans were contracting for, one of the monied gentlemen was giving ministerial dinners, and great care had been taken to procure all that was rare and expensive. In spite of the barrier being shut between this and the sister kingdom, fresh truffles were procured. They however escaped notice (among the elegant profusion with which the table. groaned); as there were no ladies present, search after

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All the servants

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wards was made in vain for this dish. denied any knowledge of it. It came out, the lady's femme de chambre had eaten it. cumstance of the same nature shall finish these observations, of a marchioness that turned off an excellent footman, for no other reason but that of eating the tarts that went from table, it being the family custom to make up the supper from the remains of dinner. This was the act of one of those ladies that served a falling family. It is much to be regretted, that in this country it is the expense that enhances the value of every thing, let it be cooked as it may.

For carving, the lady's chair ought to be a little higher than the others, (without being conspicuously so,) one raised on castors will do, and a footstool placed under her feet; this gives ease and command. The table ought never to be encumbered near her. Her knives and forks should be of steel, light, sharp, and fitted to the different uses. If a dish is at a distance, or any thing in the way, confusion must ensue.

There is something so gracious in a mistress at her own table helping her guests, that were it to be given up, an entertainment would have the appearance soon of a Table d'Hôte: but, on the other hand, it certainly is unpleasant for a gentleman to ask a lady to cut up a joint to serve him from it. This might be obviated, by the cook's cutting up the bird or joint in such a manner that by two silver skewers it would retain its form on table. It was remarked by a very young person, that at such a house he never eat turkey, as the lady took the trouble of cutting it up herself. All joints ought to be completely separated, and where the bones are too large for helping, they ought to be sawn till within half an inch through, which will then be easily separated, by pressing the back part of the blade of the knife back upon the bone. Carvers ought to be very quick, and also nice, as well for the present as for a second appearance. The idea we have in this country, that re-drest meat is mean, is founded entirely upon extravagance or bad cookery; as almost all stewed meats are first braised, fried, or roasted.

When soups are served with meats, force balls, &c. nothing shows more inattention or want of experience in the helper than that of serving it unequally, giving some

a plateful of the meat, and others nothing but soup. The best way to prevent this is to press the ladle down and lift nothing but soup, and then to turn it round to mix the meat and vegetables, taking up a small quantity of them and laying them in the middle of the plate.*

If the master of the family does not give attention to carving, which often happens, the cook ought to mark where the joints are to be cut, by running cloves across the middle, at the knuckle, or in a circle, upon a ham, by marking a haunch of venison or leg of mutton, which may be done by piercing them and sticking in a few sprigs of parsley or truffle nails.-A fore-quarter of lamb looks beautiful, garnished round the shoulders, along the breast, and on the edge of the dish with parsley. When it cannot be had or used, shalots, walnuts, gherkins, cucumbers, sprigs of cauliflowers, pickled or raw, may be cut in slips, nails, or any shape, and used as taste directs. These are without expense and useful decorations.

Finally, to obviate all difficulties, the following short directions are given, though, after all, the best lessons are derived from observation and practice.

Fish.

THERE is no apparent difficulty in helping fish, but a great deal of nicety and attention is requisite to know what parts are most esteemed and where to find them.— A cod's head comprehends a great variety. The finest part of the fish is the shoulders, and they are generally served together. Some prefer the thick, and some the thin. The delicate pieces are the jaws, tongue, sound, liver, and roe, which are helped in part, or all as desired; but great care must be taken not to overload the plate, and so to proportion the quantity as to serve all properly. This requires attention and practice.t

Should any one be present that holds maigre and par

In France, the Maitre d' Hotel takes the soup from the table and serves it, and also the large pieces, which he cuts and sends round.

This observation was made by seeing Lord go without a dinner where the feast was made expressly for himself, and a very fine turbot procured, at an extraordinary price: but his Lordship sat by the lady, and assisted her in helping it to a large party, till there was not a bit left. There had been no fish nor vegetabl soup. In vain the second course was expected to produce a plat de rot of fish-but such a thing is not known at our tables.

ticularly on Friday, that person should have a larger portion without comment, and a second helping ought to be carefully reserved for him. This attention to guests is most willingly bestowed by liberal minds, but the hurry of an entertainment and want of knowledge often leads into error.

Salmon ought to be sliced down, and the thick or thin served according as it is chosen. The head is esteemed by the gourmands; the liver and roe are delicate.

When different fishes are cooked together or served in pies, the cook should have instruction to cut them of such a size that a piece of each may not make too large a helping, which should be attended to in all sorts of pies. The carvers ought to be careful to cover over the bones, and debris of fish with the parsley and horse-raddish, and even with a napkin, as the look and smell are often offensive to those who do not eat it.

Beef.

To carve a round of beef, take a broad sharp knife of sufficient length, and cut off a slice an inch thick * completely over, and send it away, and proceed to cut in very thin slices. The hard fat is cut over with the beef.-The soft or marrow fat is found on the side, and is cut downwards. It would be needless to repeat, that it is necessary always to ask what part of every thing is preferred. As it is not handsome either to give large or thick slices, a good carver has the address in helping two or three thin slices, to lay them like steps upon one another, the fat uppermost, and never to forget gravy, asking what vegetables, and sending the servant for them, or according to the management of the table, sending the vegetables afterwards to the guest.

Sirloin

To be sent to table with the outside upwards, which is first cut down along the back bone close to the ribs; it is

Where good cookery is practised, and the round has been braised, the nearer the surface the higher will be the flavor, which, of course, is not the case when boiled in a great pot of water; therefore, to cut off a thin slice on the very top, where it may rise, to flatten it so that the slices may be nicely taken off, will be enough-and this may be done by the cook before it goes to table.

then cut in thin slices down the ribs towards the carver. The fat is underneath, and is easily slipped out, as the bones stand hollow. This, however, is not the best part of this joint. Turn it over, and cut across in thin slices to the bone. Let the plate be held up to help the gravy; push up the joint with the spoon; put aside any frozen fat, and help the gravy clear with a little horse-raddish ; if there is a well in the dish this precaution will not be necessary, although this direction is necessary throughout. Ribs of Beef are carved in the same way.

Calf's Head.

Whether a calf's head is presented half or whole, it is carved in the same way. Cut off the sweet bread from the throat, then cut down through the fleshy part of the cheek in thin slices along the jaws, and help a little of both with a small bit of palate and half an eye, (which is easily taken out by running round the point of the knife in the socket,) and a thin slice or two of the tongue, if served with the head. Observe-a lamb's head is cut in the same way, in whatever manner it may be presented. This dish requires both quick and neat carving, and management to serve many.

Breast of Veal.

Cut off the front bones all along, which will be found to extend from two to three inches from the edge; then divide them according to their size in one or two joints, and cut the ribs out in the same manner. If the company is small, or if it may be supposed that all will not be wanted, one or two fore bones may be taken off, and then the others for were it all left cut down, it could not be presented to table again cold. This is an important lesson of economy in all cases.

Fillet of Veal

Is carved nearly as a Round of Beef, with this difference, from its being roasted, the outside is by many considered the nicest part. It ought, therefore, to be cut in thin slices, and helped with an inside slice and a little stuffing,