the middle, and garnish with barberries, green currant leaves, &c.

Many prefer this oriental method of serving pickles as giving a higher relish to the sauce, and from being of more easy digestion.

A seraglio dinner, consisting of twelve dishes, served in three courses, having one large dish placed in the centre of the room.

The dishes were placed before every one separately on a round silver or plated tray, raised on feet a couple of inches, and set on the divan. The same dishes were

served to each, that there might be no bone of contention. In the centre of the room was a lamb cubbubed, or roasted whole, accompanied by a huge cook in the capacity of carver. The beverages were perfect syrups, flavored with different fruits and flowers. The napkins were embroidered with gold, and perfumed waters were carried round and poured upon the hands over a basin, having a perforated cover in which flowers were stuck: this is also an Indian custom, and much more elegant than our finger-glasses. The custom is however partially introduced here by carrying round rose-water.

DINNERS FOR THE MIDDLING ORDERS.

By the comparison of the following dinners, given by a very numerous class, from 2 to 600l. per annum, which I quote, and have had the satisfaction of convincing some of those that gave them of their impropriety and extravagance, by showing them dinners in a better style, and though of meats inferior in price, quality, and taste, according to the ordinary cookery, but which will, if the receipts are properly attended to, be, at least, equally good. I hope to convince them, that by attention to cookery and economy they will live better than they now do, and at the extraordinary saving of half (I was going to say two-thirds) in the kitchen: but the vulgar could not believe such a thing, and I shall yield to their prejudice, in hope of winning them to their own comfort, of course, not including butter, bread, and these necessaries, which are wasted only through neglect. Mistresses with such incomes cannot be above looking over their kitchen; indeed, it is out of their power to keep any thing like a good cook. Let them not suppose that the dinner I set against theirs, from containing more dishes requires more trouble; a very slight knowledge of cookery will teach them this.

It is an old and true proverb, that “ too many cooks spoil the broth." The handsomest of the following dinners was prepared by a mistress and one servant; the shabbiest by two servants and a hired cook, the mistress and two daughters, which was a scene of the most ludicrous confusion that can be conceived. To save a few coals by not lighting a fire in a back kitchen, adjudged too wasteful, the pots and pans were distributed all over

the house. The cards of invitation did not specify the hour of dinner, but the entertainers had fixed upon six, amiably putting themselves five hours behind their time for the convenience of their guests, who conceived that hour rather late, lest their host might construe it into a show of superior breeding; so as St. Paul's struck five the hackney-coachman thundered at the door, and twice repeated the summons: the company was then admitted, when the coast might have been supposed clear, but unfortunately the 10s. cod shoulders that figures in the bill, according to its prior destination, figured on the floor. But it is not often that occurs; accidents so salutary, for this one bids fair to save the family from ruin; but the practice in that line of life is common, and mistresses should add to their other expenses such bad management as the destruction of furniture and clothes.

Men more than women, mixing oftener with classes above their own, and going to taverns, become dissatisfied with the style of their own establishments, and unless their wives pay some attention to a little style and, amongst other things, to cookery, they are apt to desert their homes sometimes altogether.

It must here be remarked that these things were bought at the dearest season. This is as ignorant as wasteful, for with the few exceptions, such as peas and lamb, &c. every thing is best when cheapest. This dinner cost, besides nearly 21. for little extras, sent out for at the moment, which were of no use afterwards, and which might have been made at home, besides wine, porter, and spirits, fruit, cakes, &c. &c.

This calculation is supposing the mistress to understand cookery, to market herself, and carefully, and to make the pastry at home. It must also be observed, that

the table of such mistress, whatever be the meats, will always look better and more affluent *, than that of the other form the home-made pickles, vinegar, ketchup, liquors, preserves, &c., which she is enabled to present, besides ginger, spruce, or other beers, wines, with cakes for tea, &c. &c.

* A prudent economical housewife knows afar off, what she will require. Perhaps she must have a Christmas dinner; she does not wait till every thing is doubled in price, she has no fear that six weeks will over-salt a tongue or a piece of beef, which she prefers at half, or a reasonable price, to the exorbitant prices which take rise three or four weeks before Christmas; she will also prepare her little cates, so that her dinner will neither be expense nor trouble to her, for a good manager can make the present often yield to the future.