admire you; and never saw any one of you on his hind-legs in his native shag, with forepaws gracefully doubled by his sides, [how that small, sly-eyed fellow looks up at us from the pit!] without recalling some of those curious biped specimens of la jeune France, in singular costume, going about the Palais-Royale in hairy paletot, and ripe for mischief of any kind. How fraternally you all drink out of the same pail, rub your noses against the same post, and beg for the same bit of bun which some mischievous urchin, taught by his seniors, has let down twenty times till within an inch of your crimson oesophagus. Always bring your Abernethy biscuits here, you will want them for your favourites in the promenade. That eminent person conceived that a good medical manner might be picked up in this school; and we confess we like it better than the monkey or the jackall manner, as the fashion of some is, and would sooner adopt it than others the scrape or the whine, by which some seek to degrade an honourable profession. At this barrier, by a slightly inclined plane, we descend to the animals below stairs, having first sufficiently reconnoitred the fine position which time compels us to abandon, the best by far in the garden for the deliberate study of ladies' ancles, as they stand behind the low parapet on tiptoe and lean over to make overtures to the bears. What a nasty creature that fellow is, half bear, half sloth, who smells at you through his bars, and rattles his overgrown incurvated toe nails, as he springs about his den, or protrudes the terrible apparatus towards muslin dresses, and other loose investments of tender flesh and blood! We next encounter a long line of animals associated at once in their anatomical and moral character. There scowls the dark striped tyrant from Bengal, from the deepest recess of his cage, his eye blazing in the corner, and his very respiration a growl; there lies the lion, worthy of Rubens or Ca. nova; there bounds the graceful but hateful leopard, pacing his narrow prison with brisk light step, and sharp turn, and looking at the spectators, with an expression where ferocity strangely seems to blend with the love of admiration. They were not used to see parasols in the desert-see

how they whisk and swing the tail, and show the enameled teeth, with sardonic expression, as the offensive silk approaches! A little further on, we forget beasts and birds, and every living thing, in our admiration of the flowers, sprinkled over many a gay parterre, which tessellates the well rolled gravel. This is a real garden of plants-not merely a Necropolis of interred roots, epitaphed under their little white tomb-stones, but bear-garden, bird garden, and flowergarden in one-a real Paradeisos ! But to return to the animals. It is well worth the shilling you have paid, merely to have seen, even were it but for once, the attitudes, the tread, the à plomb, of those caged monsters; to catch the old lion sleeping, as he slept to Canova, his terrible eye half closed, and half his lancets sheathed within that fore foot, so gracefully and harmlessly protruding under the bars. As to the monkeys, they secure attention every where, by their fun, frolic, and grimace. Who can refuse to laugh at these hairy Odrys and Grimaldis, who grin and chatter away, though all are doomed to die prematurely of consumption? An old monkey in England is a phenomenon of resistance to climate-constant exercise is no prophylactic, the warm cell and the tenderest care avail not. No office would ensure their lives at any premium. They may gibe and chatter away, but it may be fairly doubted whether the poor monkeys, like other comedians, are not melancholy at heart-their acquaintance list, their blue book must be constantly obsolete; no tenant occupies his tiny house for long; permanent friendships must be impossible; even the ourang-outang, the keeper's pet, that impersonation of a bandy-legged ostler, sits miserably by the side of his wizened wife's flannel petticoat, and, like a consumptive lunatic, gazes vacantly as he minches and munches at his stick! But away to the birds, singing, chirping, or whistling their own happiness to the passer by. There the deep-feathered cockatoo stretches forth his graceful head, and parts the feathers on his neck as if on purpose to be caressed, and evidently desiring to hold gentle converse with you as you plunge your hand amidst his down. Surely it is not in this compartment of the aviary that the cruel

serpent should have been shut up, among turtle doves and parroquets! for here the boa's fourteen feet of irresistible violence is coiled in harmless sleep on a costly blanket; and the double-barred cobra is waiting in grim repose till the next week's victim rabbit be thrust into his cage! On that pretty margined pond, his miniature Win. dermere, swims the black swan, with his fairer cousins, and other web-footed foreigners of distinction. Hard by, the king of birds, with drooping eyelids, clings in solitary grandeur to his forlorn perch, with his yellow talons bent under him. His neighbour, the grey necked vulture, flaps his colossal wings, or utters a carnivorous cry, as he greedily rushes to the bars, equally ready to devour the gift or the hands that hold it; and the nimble kite, the bright-eyed destroyer of sparrows, and the owl staring at you through his round spectacles, and that offspring of clandestine marriage between pheasant and fowl, and the gazza ladra, and the jackdaw, and all the little birds of the air, are all here. Last, in separate paddocks, as it behoves them, stalk those enormous fowls that

lay eggs big as unshelled cocoa nuts, who mince their awkward steps, and come sidelong up to you. In coppices, beautifully enameled with crocuses and daisies, the soft-eyed deer quits his rich pasturage for a moment, to rub his cold black nose against the railing where you stand. The timid gazelle is here, and the elk, proud of his stately antlers; and, towering above all, the unwieldy elephant, with his rolling gait and his gouty legs, librating his trunk, and peeping out from between his ivory tusks; while, from the far end of his substantial stall, the fiery eye of the shaggy bonassus arrests and facinates yours, as he glares on you wildly, and pushes his huge neck against the wooden barrier between him and the three slender giraffes, whose beautiful forms stand like Canova's sister graces, intertwining their long amorous necks high over your head. But we are getting already too national, and, in our character of a traveller, are pledged to bring before our reader the merveilles, not so much of a similar as of a dissimilar character, which await him abroad. We will begin with Pisa.

That there be leaning towers, and campaniles, and campo santos, at Pisa, and duomos, and churches and bridges on the long dull quay of the Arno, the reader long since knew; but he probably may not know any thing of the unique farm of the Duke of Tuscany, on which the camel has supplanted the ox; and that it is no longer a scene in which the magnificent horned cattle of Etruria are the protagonists, but a vision of the desert, with the beasts of the desert, and the very sands and tourbillons of the desert, to set it off! To others, the black and white chequer-work of the towers and churches of Pisa!-of our own doings, we shall record only our visit to the camel establishment, and our gleanings there, together with a brief notice of its most interesting and overlooked museum.

"Our present number of camels," said their head keeper to us asking for information," is about sixty; from ten to fifteen yearly births make up our annual deficiency caused by death, or

the sale of the old and infirm beasts to itinerant showmen. These persons pay us from forty-five to fifty sequins (L.20-L.23) for an old camel to lead about with a halter, and we have no difficulty in thus disposing of them. Such of our camels past their work, as are not thus got rid of, die not unfrequently of accident, or of apoplexy, or still more frequently of inflammation of the bowels. The age attained by the camel here, may be stated to be about that of the horse, viz., from twenty to twenty-five years. They eat about the same quantity of hay, but will find sustenance in grazing upon what would be sorry fodder for the latter. They drink seldom oftener than once in the twenty-four hours. The males alone are employed to workare all stallions. The progeny of too young a camel are weak and sickly, and for this reason ours are not allowed to generate till they have attained their tenth year, from which period the rights of paternity are conceded to them, till they have passed their

of his sarcasm is before it. This mak ing of faces not succeeding, his next plan was to raise his head, only increasing his labial contortions, till at last he set his mouth wide open, and began to utter a series of harsh guttural sounds, accompanied with a look of such angry impatience, that we had no difficulty in at once understanding his displeasure. The keeper now tries to get him up, and up he gets, still protesting, however, that it is malgrè lui. The man puts the panniers on his back, and this redoubles his wrath. He now scolds thick, his eyes are angry, and right ahead; till having lost all control over his temper, he brings up his inflamed pouch, which protrudes forth on both sides of his graminivorous jaws - it is scarcely swallowed again, when, like a globus hystericus, it works up again, and so on-(it is not every one who sees a camel in a passion.) He was now ordered to kneel, and as he appeared slow, a rod made its appearance, when the subdued brute turned an expostulating look to the keeper, as if he would say, "strike, but fear."

eighteenth. During the cold months of the year, which is their season, it is not safe to approach them. As the time for their accouchement approaches, (which is just one year after conception,) the females are narrowly watched by those whose office it is to attend the birth. They follow them about by day, and pen them up every night, and see that they have a comfortable litter. When they are once confined, they are apt to quit the maison de couché, and to leave the young camel deserted; to prevent which, the keeper is often obliged to carry the suckling after its mother, and even place the teat in its mouth; nor is the lady camel allowed to recommence her Arab life in the pineforest, for three or four months afterwards. To assert or think deformity of the camel kind, because other quadrupeds have straight spines, would be indeed absurd. Yet certain it is that all protuberance of the dorsal column begins by giving this impression; but really when protuberance of the belly comes in aggravation or in counterpoise of prominence of the spine, the impression as to lines of beauty is highly unfavourable; and we assure our readers that a camel, in that condition in which camels like to be who love their lords, is very unprepossessing indeed. Till four years old, the young camel is educated to be docile and humble; after this period they quit their mothers' side, leave the sandy shore of their childhood, and are saddled with the panniers, which they carry for twenty years. As a camel's natural pace his "ruminating" pace-is but about four miles an hour, he does not object to carry a thousand pounds, if it be equally balanced on his back, and Bajocchi used to send them down to Leghorn, laden with this weight of fodder, to the horses of the garrison.

We saw one huge brute lying down, his morning labours over, to taste that repose, without which not even the longsuffering camel can continue his laborious life. He looked round at us from his straw, and seemed displeased at our intrusion. As we drew near, the idea of having to get up and show himself for our amusement, seemed to cross his mind, and made him very angry. He began to work his bifid lip from side to side, and looked as cross as Lord B, when his nose is in motion, and the victim

It was very interesting to see a whole herd of male camels kneeling in a semicircle, to get their panniers on, or at work. Midway between the farm and the sea, in the middle of the sandy road, we saw several lady camels standing audaciously, in all the protuberance of advanced pregnancy and secured idleness. In this royal "chasse" rests might be seen set up here and there for unpractised guns to lean upon, amidst the pines and poplars; while we were here, (as if to complete the oriental picture,) the sand rose and was whirled about in columns across our path-beyond us the sea was foaming, and a sentinel or two in military costume might be described on the look-out. The preventive service in which these persons were engaged was a curious one; it was literally to prevent any person carrying away any part of the sea, unless he had proper documents of authority to do so; for sea water yields salt, and salt res fisci est-nobody sells salt or gunpowder but the Duke. This sandy plantation of the Maremma has been turned to excellent account, and furnishes much wealth to Pisa; it is stocked with deer-1000 head are annually slaughtered, but the venison is by no means good, as it would seem,

for antelopes bring not more than one penny per pound! Boars also abound in the thicket, and grow fat upon the fine acorns of its ilex and Farnia oaks. The pine cones are also valuable; gathered in by the camels, they are housed for the winter, and in summer are brought out and exposed to the sun, till they open and give out their little seed or nut-needed for the agro dolce sauce of the said boar. At the roots of the trees flourishes a little yellow fungus called a pinochiochi, which rivals the "Pioppini," or that variety of mushroom which affects the poplar. These, and the "Morrecchi," which abound at the foot of the farnia, are sold in great quantities towards autumn in the Pisan- market. There was a smart breeze, as we have hinted,

when we entered the royal preserves and a considerable fluster took place amongst the timber in consequencethe frailer inhabitants of the wood were shaken sorely, and all were put upon their metal. We felt quite sorry for a row of young acacias, as we watched their agitated movements, and their Angouleme screw curls all loose about their shoulders. The aspens were hysterical; the catalpe rattled his long pods, like castanets, to promote the dance; the dark olive sighed at being obliged to part with his unripe berry; the ilex and the oak dropped their acorns in silent displeasure; and every now and then an immature pine cone, full of turpentine, and heavy as a cricket ball, fell thundering at our feet.

was the mother quail, fat and freckled, sitting in moss, with all her little freckled offspring before, around, upon her back, under her belly, and between her wings, a beautiful little group of innocence on eider down. There was a poor blackbird perched on a tree, and thence beholding a vil lanous marten on another, where her own nest lay unprotected, with his malignant snout within one inch of the little brood. The poor bird is in agony, and cannot fail to excite the sympathy of all who behold her. Many a sigh has she doubtless extorted from young mothers. A crowd of speckled starlings draw off our attention to see what they may be about. We should say, at this distance, by observing their position, that they are particularly happy; but they are at nasty work as we get near, picking from the nares of a goat's head the unclean progeny of the blowfly, over which, true to their instincts, their buzzing mothers hover in swarms. An old bluebottle seems fascinated to the spot. An audacious bird has carried

off one of her brood; it is writhing on her bill; and she who has been the parent of a thousand such, will ere long sit like Niobe over her slaughtered brood! From the starling we turn to a pond of frogs. They are the common frog, destined for fricassee, as a printed notice informs the uninitiated, and look as if they were suspicious of our observing them, with that very recollection in our heads; those of them fairly in the water take care to keep all but their heads below, while others lurk under the leaf of the water lily. A marvellous representation is before us of a frog's soiree about hay-time. Some seem leg-weary with the length of way they have. come; and, conscious of having contracted some soils, are about to wash themselves before the music begins. One idle fellow, who has been bathing all day, stretches out his lazy length on a bit of wood, and floats in luxury on the pond, in which attitude his hind quarters look particularly fat and inviting; he sees you think so, and in another moment will be down headforemost, and out of danger. After a few minutes, as we stand gazing on them, our friends the frogs have taken confidence, and opine that we do not intend, pro hac vice, to molest them; a whole population, that had at first escaped our observation, now come in view. One sprawls with another on his back; two or three are blowing out their buccinators; a third is trying

a sort of mesmerism on the body of a young slug, making passes with his tongue, and staring her out of countenance with goggle eyes. If he fail to fascinate like other magnetisers, he will take substantial revenge, and eat up his victim. Now, is that diaphanous medium, on which, or in which, all this is transacted, really not water? To resolve this doubt, and at the danger of unperching a thrush, who is watching the froggery from a thorn, we lift the apparatus upside down, and lo! the seemingly liquid medium is as solid as rock-crystal! Let those who would see how amiable a hedgehog can look, when she is a mother, peep under a neighbouring cover; the little dears, for whom she has made the sacrifice of coming here to exhibit, are all round her, and as prickly as herself-one is still coiled up asleep, another on his back is just opening his eyes to unroll himself for the day. Such a prickly progeny must make suckling one's own any thing but pleasant. A little camel, white and woolly, stands, in three months' helplessness, on a shelf. She came from the Pisan farm. The young camel is always thus white. The miniature wonders of else invisible botany are here displayed on a scale such as Mirbel and his microscope make them out; but wax will change colour, and a wax mushroom, however correct the likeness may be at first, soon changes to a toadstool hue. This, indeed, happens not only to mushrooms, to fruits, and to flowers in wax, but, alas! to ladies' busts. Our own artist in Paris told us, and as all may see, he never would have his Psyche done again. He would leave her, he said, to turn round in his window as at first, and never forget to wind her up; she should always be coiffée in the last mode; but as to her complexion, he had made up his mind to be indifferent about that, for he had always had her three times painted and restored by the modeller, and, notwithstanding all this expense, he did not believe she had ever brought

him a new customer. A branch of the oleander in flower bears a specimen of that beautiful sphinx, the nerea, whose escutcheon is a death's head. She sits there as if proposing to all who pass, (her empty crysalis lying below,) the riddle of her birth! She had entered that fragile receptacle a lengthy many-footed voracious caterpillar; who could expect her to appear to the world in her present character of a feathered hexapod, of exquisite symmetry, with an apparatus no longer suited for chewing cabbage (which her reformed taste now repudiates,) but a spiral tube expressly destined for the enjoyment of the nestarium? Behind her, you have a specimen of the imperfect insect that knows not of any beyond the caterpillar state, or dreams of higher destiny than that in which he died. Ye lovers of boar-hunting on old sarcophagi, ye amateurs who would give much to possess a genuine Schneider, look to the drama enacted here! Does not the tusked old sow look as if she would instantly break cover and be at you, and bring her enemies the dogs through the shattered glass? There she stands magnificently at bay, and looks in her erect attitude like those heroes in the Farnese, who see Medusa's head, and as they look, are hardening into stone. A huge point from a snapt spear is buried in her back; one dog is hanging to her ear, and another, disemboweled, is dying under her belly. There she stands! These and similar groups make us careless to look at an immense aviary, that, without uttering a note, is singing around us; or at the monkeys, who grin, or swing suspended by their coiled tails, for their own pleasure; or at those great birds, who fill whole presses with their grotesque forms, curly to the rump, and with legs as thick as a donkey's. It is altogether a fine collection. We would stay longer, but there is the botanic garden to be visited, and we are to-morrow to reach Florence, by an inexorable engagement with a vetturino.

The pride of this garden is English -its three principal trees came from London, and were planted here half a century ago-viz., a cedar of Lebanon,

surpassed, however, by the one at Paris, an oriental willow of unexampled luxuriance, and two Magnolias (grandifolia,) that spread out to their