stones of memorial written by Joshua are yet in existence, and that their discovery may one day afford additional proof of the authenticity of the ancient books of the Scriptures. "And he wrote there, (in mount Ebal, or as the Samaritans read, in mount Gerizim,) upon the stones a copy of the law of Moses, which he wrote in the presence of the children of Israel." Joshua viii. 32. There are still a few Samaritans resident in Nabloos, who "worship God upon this mountain," and retain the faith of their fathers. They are strict in their attention to such parts of the law as they acknowledge, and expect a Messiah.They read in their version of the Pentateuch that the altar was erected by Joshua upon mount Gerizim, and not upon Ebal, which reading is defended by Kennicott, and they repair at stated times to the supposed site of the temple to perform acts of worship. The synagogue is plain and clean, and among other ancient books they have a copy of the Pentateuch, which they regard with peculiar veneration, and affirm that it was written by the grandson of Aaron. They suppose that there are many Samaritans in England and other parts of Europe. There are a few families of Jews who reside in a small court near the bazar. Justyn Martyr was born here. ragged children. The erection is in a very elaborate style of architecture. Beneath it are several vaults, which probably opened into the sides of the hill. The eastern end is nearly perfect, which confirms the remark made by Maundrell, that if any portion of a church is left standing in these parts, it is certain to be the eastern end. It has a pentagonal projection, the windows of which have arches above them, and are separated from each other by small pillars with Corinthian capitals. In the interior, the projection is spanned by a pointed arch, the ribs of which have been worked into a variety of figures, with more labor than good taste. The southern wall is supported by buttresses, and towards the eastern end is built upon a mole. The walls are not all of the same date. In the area inside is the dome of a small mosque, with marble slabs before the entrance. It is built over a small cave or dungeon, in which it is said that John the Baptist was beheaded. The tomb of John was shown in the time of Julian the apostate, when the inhabitants of the city are said to have opened it, and burnt a portion of his bones, preserving the rest as relics. Higher up the hill, stone columns are seen in every direction, but without capitals. We counted eighty in an upright position, besides many that are prostrate. The summit of the hill appears to have been scarped, as there is a steep ascent nearly all round, and in this place may have been the citadel. We halted in an olive grove, about a mile from the town, near Bier Sheba, a spring that sends forth a stream of water of sufficient volume to turn a mill. We were now in the tribe of Ephraim. This tribe may be considered as one of the most We have here another of those places near celebrated of the twelve. Joshua was an Ephraim- which we can stand as upon vantage ground, and ite, and was buried in the border of his inherit-look back upon the men and deeds of other times ance which is in mount Ephraim." It was within the borders of this tribe that the words of the law were solemnly read before the people, and that Shiloh was situated, where the ark of God rested from the days of Joshua to the death of Eli. Jeroboam, the first monarch of Israel, was of this tribe, and it contained the royal cities of Tirzah, where the first kings resided, and Samaria, where they resided from the time of Omri to the destruction of the state. SAMARIA. WE passed several mills, April 25, upon the stream of water produced by the springs near Nabloos, and not far from a ruined aqueduct of twelve arches, we turned off to the right, and began to ascend the hills. An hour's ride brought us within sight of Sebastie, the ancient Samaria. It stands upon a rounded hill of moderate and gentle ascent, in the centre of a valley, surrounded at a few miles' distance by mountains of considerable elevation. The whole of the valley is at present cultivated. In a south-east direction are the walls of a castle built upon a steep hill, formed of layers of rock with scarcely a particle of earth upon them. Between this castle and the town we passed under an aqueduct. Sebastie is situated on the eastern slope of the hill, and has an interesting appearance from the remains of an old convent that rise up among the meaner buildings by which they are surrounded, like a prim old schoolmistress sitting in the midst of her rude and with an absolute certainty of the truth. It commands an extensive view, and the Mediterranean may probably be seen from it on a clearer day than that with which we were favored. Under present appearances, it would seem to be preferable to Jerusalem as the site for a capital city, and capable of being more strongly fortified, but we must remember the many changes that the position of Jerusalem has undergone: the beauty of Zion is departed, the crown has fallen from her head, and woe is unto her, because she has sinned. It is seldom that we have an account so certain of the origin of an ancient city as we have of this place. Omri, king of Israel," bought the hill Samaria, of Shemer, for two talents of silver, and built on the hill, and called the name of the city which he built after the name of Shemer, owner of the hill, Samaria." 1 Kings xvi. 24. From this time it was the capital of the revolted tribes. It had the winter house, and the summer house, and the houses of ivory. The wicked Ahab erected upon this hill an altar to Baal; in this plain Benhadad, king of Assyria, was routed; in the gate of this city sat the king of Israel and the king of Judah, each in his robes and upon a throne, when the false prophets delivered their ambiguous prediction, and Micaiah, declared the word of the Lord: in that pool the dogs licked the blood of Ahab as they had formerly licked the blood of Naboth his enemy up that ascent have often toiled the prophets Elijah and Elisha, bearing messages of wrath from the most High: within these walls there has been a great famine, so that "an ass's head sold for fourscore pieces of silver, and a woman boiled her own son, and did eat him." it was from hence that the host of the Syrians fled, because the Lord made them to hear a noise of chariots and a noise of horses, leaving the camp as it was, a prey to the famished Samaritans: it was here that Jehu slew the worshippers of Baal, and brake down their images: it was after enduring a siege of three years in this capital that Hoshea, the last of its kings, was carried away captive by the king of Assyria: it contained the royal sepulchres of Israel; the gospel was here preached by Philip, and confirmed by Peter and John, to whom Simon, the sorcerer, offered money that he might receive the Holy Ghost and it suffered in common with its more guilty rival, when Palestine was subdued by the Roman power. The present inhabitants of Sebastie appear to be miserably poor, but they showed us every attention in their power, and retired without asking for a present. After a slight breakfast, at which we had no coffee as usual, because sufficient fuel could not be procured in this once populous metropolis to boil our kettle, we descended into the plain, and then mounted the northern range of hills. From one point we had a view of the sea, and on our left was a sheet of water of considerable extent. We passed over many hills, through passes at different elevations, and along plains gradually increasing in extent as we proceeded, in one of which we counted forty ploughs at work at the same time. The villages are numerous, and are situated on the brows of the hills. When we arrived at the plain of Esdraelon, as it was too late to attempt to cross it, we turned off towards Jennin, and spread our clothes for the night under the leaves of one of the largest mulberry trees I ever saw. This place contains many ruins, but none of them apparently of a very ancient date. It is supposed, with some plausibility, to be the JEZREEL of Scripture, where the kings of Israel had a palace, where Naboth was murdered, and Jezebel was precipitated from a window. The residence of the witch of ENDOR was in this neighborhood. We had now crossed the possessions of the halftribe of Manasseh, which extended westward as far as the sea, and entered upon those of Issachar. THE PLAIN OF ESDRAELON. THE rising sun, April 26, found us already upon the plain of Esdraelon, the most extensive in Palestine. It is about fifty miles long, and twenty broad, and is also called the Great Plain and the valley of Jezreel. Before us were the mountains of Galilee; on our right, mount Tabor, upon which, as is generally supposed, our Lord was transfigured, and mount Gilboa, where the beauty of Israel was slain upon the high places, and the daughters of the uncircumcised triumphed; and on our left, mount Carmel, visible through the whole extent of its chain as far as the extremity that overlooks the sea. Tabor differs in its appearance from the general character of the mountains, being insulated, and conical in its form. It is about 1200 feet high. We again crossed the bed of the Kishon. The city of Meroz, the inhabitants of which were cursed because they came not up to the help of the Lord against the mighty, was situated in this direction. In this plain, Sisera and his host were overthrown by the prowess of a woman; here "Saul died, and his three sons, and his armour-bearer, and all his men, that same day together:" here Josiah was slain by Necho, king of Egypt; here Holofernes was slain by Judith, the valiant widow; and here the three unclean spirits, coming out of "the mouth of the dragon, and out of the mouth of the beast, and out of the mouth of the false prophet," shall gather together "the kings of the earth and of the whole world," to the battle of the great day of God Almighty. The name of the plain appears to have been proverbial as a place of mourning and destruction, and perhaps few places in the world have been so often saturated with human gore: there have been but few nations of consequence, the names of which do not appear in the pages of its history, and Napoleon Buonaparte is associated with Deborah, the prophetess who judged Israel. The soil is in some places more than six feet thick, and exceedingly rich, and were the plain well cultivated, it would be one of the most productive in the world. There are a few small villages scattered over its surface, but not perhaps a hundreth part of the number it is well able to sustain. One of my companions crossed the plain in the depth of last winter, when it was covered with snow. The sumpter mule of the party being delayed by the difficulties of the road, was attacked by robbers, and a rich booty carried away. A complaint was made to the pacha, who immediately issued an order for full restitution to the chief of the nearest village, on which nearly the whole of the stolen articles were returned, and the rest of the amount was made up by a general levy upon the people. We passed at some distance the village of NAIN, where our Lord raised the young man to life," the only son of his mother, and she was a widow." It was lately destroyed by the pacha, on account of the disaffection of its inhabitants. In four hours from leaving Jennin we began to ascend the hills of Galilee. This district, in the time of Josephus, was celebrated for its fruitfulness, and abounded with all descriptions of trees, a strange contrast to its present nakedness and sterility. It contained many towns, the least of which had above 15,000 inhabitants. We had to pass over a steep and difficult road, in the bed of a mountain torrent. This brought us to Ain Emir, whence we again began to descend, and soon entered the valley of Nazareth, where we halted a few hours during the heat of the day. opinion, that the females were the best looking, The Latin convent, a massy structure, is built santa casa, 57 done to take off the mind from truths that would amply repay its attention, Nazareth is still a place of great interest to the true Christian pilgrim. We know little of the early life of our Saviour, but that little brings to us sources of profitable reflection; and meditated, and prayed, and held communion and as we look upon the hills where he walked, with the Father, the wish to examine these things means of information may perhaps be pardoned. more closely than is possible with our present The district of Galilee was favored above all others with the presence of the Saviour during his residence among men. something in the disposition of the people, or in It might be that there was the political state of the country at that period, more congenial with the interests of his divine mission. In Jerusalem there were fierce contentions between the parties in the state, and it was there that the pride of the Pharisee, the infidelity of the Sadducee, the rapacity of the lawyer, and the wickedness of the priest, were manifested with the most open effrontery: in Gallilee there was comparative tranquillity, and the virtues of the lowly Jesus, seen only by the simple people of a country village, excited not the envy of those who might otherwise have sought to take away his life before his ministry was commenced. It was in Galilee that the angel of the annunciation appeared to Mary, and afterwards to Joseph; the holy family abode here after their return from Egypt, and Jesus continued with them until he began to be about thirty years of age; here he first preached, and though from this time to his death he itinerated among the principal cities of the land, his more constant residence was in Galilee, and it was here that he first appeared to the apostles after his resurrection. Nearly all the apostles were "men of Galilee." In more ancient times, the same country belonged to the tribes of Issachar, Zebulon, and Naphtali. Upon the death of Herod the Great, the tetrarchy of Galilee fell to the possession of Herod Antipas, who was the same Herod that beheaded John the Baptist, and ridiculed our blessed Saviour when sent unto him by Pilate. In other parts of Nazareth are shown Joseph's work-shop; the synagogue in which Jesus upon the valley from an eminence, it appeared On retiring from the city, and looking back preached; and a large round stone, upon which more beautiful than we had thought it from the our Lord was accustomed to dine with his disci- town. We passed the village of Rane, and afterples, both before and after his resurrection, "ac- wards CANA, where one of the water-pots is still cording to regular tradition, never interrupted, and shown in which Christ is said to have converted known to all the nations of the east." There are the water into wine at the marriage feast. We many other places shown to the pilgrims, but my saw some water-pots upon the heads of the women faith was already taxed far beyond its capacity.The Greeks have built a church over the spring, description that they keep in their houses, but near the well, and there are others of a larger whence the village is supplied, as they say that they are all of toc brittle a material for one of the Virgin was drawing water at the time of the them to have survived without injury near 2000 annunciation. It is not improbable that this well years. This was the birth-place of Nathanael, was frequented by Mary, as the distance is conve- afterwards called Bartholomew, the disciple, and nient, and our Saviour and his disciples may have our Lord was at this place when the nobleman refreshed themselves from its stream. The hill from Capernaum besought him in behalf of his shown as that whence the people vainly endea-son, and heard from him the cheering words, "Thy vored to cast Jesus down headlong, is too far from the city, and there are brows of the hill whereon the houses now stand that would be equally eligible for their wicked purpose, one of which was no doubt the identical spot, but which of them cannot now be ascertained with exactness. After all that the old empress Helena, and the equally credulous but more crafty monks, have 53--8 son liveth." We soon afterwards entered upon cular examination than they appear to have yet re- We had a long conversation with the priest, and .ceived. TIBERIAS.-THE SEA OF GALILEE. THE plain continued some distance further, April 27, when we passed upon our left the mount upon which it is said that Jesus Christ delivered his sermon, when he perhaps disappointed the expectations of some of his auditors, who were desiring to hear inculcated a system of obligation the very reverse of peace, and meekness, and poverty of spirit. It has been said that the hill is too high, but we are not told that Christ ascended to the summit, and its gently sloping sides would be admirably adapted to the convenience of an assembly listening to an address. The objection is more plausible, that it is further from the city than we should suppose our Lord would have brought his disciples. We soon afterwards had a sight of the northern part of the sea of Galilee, and after passing down a deep descent, arrived at the city of Tiberias. It stands close to the lake, in a bad situation for defence, and is walled, with round towers at certain distances, but the walls in some places are falling down. There are two gates, one only of which is at present in use, and the other is partly walled up. The castle is the only building of any considerable appearance, but there is also a mosque, with a minaret and several clean white domes, and a few date-trees flourishing near, which invite the followers of the false prophet to stillness and devotion. Only a small part of the space within the walls is occupied by houses. The best of the buildings are but wretched, and the greater number are in ruins. The city may contain about 3000 inhabitants, of whom the Jews are by far the more numerous body. It is one of the four sacred places of the Talmud. The last session of the Sanhedrim is said to have been held here: the Mishna, or text of the Talmud, was here reduced to writing; and here the noted Massorites carried forward their minute investigations. There was formerly at this place a rabbinical college, and even some of the present inhabitants are deeply engaged in the study of the law and of Hebrew literature. They are supported principally by contributions from Europe, as there is no commerce connected with the place. We remained at a Roman Catholic church, apparently very ancient, dedicated to St. Peter, for which various reasons are assigned, some of them contradictory. Its walls are four and a half feet thick, the roof is vaulted, and it has much the appearance of a modern powder-magazine, not having a single ornament in its construction. There are four windows on each side, those on the south closed up. On one of the stones in the front there is an inscription, but I could not approach near enough to it to see in what character. The entrance is modern. There are several pictures at the eastern end, all except one very rude; but what is somewhat remarkable in a Latin church, there is not a single image. The service-books are all in Arabic. I counted fifty people at matins, which speaks well for them, and may give some idea of the number of Christians in the place. there appeared to be something good about him, though alloyed with much ignorance. The city was built by Herod Antipas, in honor of Tiberius the Roman emperor. It submitted to Vespasian on his approach, and he altered his intention of putting all the inhabitants to the sword, at the request of Agrippa. On the south of the town the mountains are very abrupt, and approach near to the shore of the lake. In the sides are excavations, some of which we examined, but found nothing of interest. The shore, to some distance from the town, has been occupied by buildings, as we found the usual traces of a Roman city. We passed the ruins of a church, a sheikh's tomb with an inscription in ancient Arabic, and several prostrate columns and detached capitals; and after a walk of about an hour, arrived at the hot wells of Emmaus. The baths are in ruins, especially the division alloted to the females. Several Jews and Jewesses were bathing, as is their custom every Friday, to prepare themselves for the Sabbath. There is a magnificent bath in the course of erection for Ibrahim Pacha, at a little distance from the former building, surrounded by an open colonade, which is supported by marble pillars taken from ancient ruins. The springs are numerous, and some of them send forth a plentiful stream. The mercury in my thermometer, when dipped into the water, immediately rose to the top of the tube, 135° of Fahrenheit, but this is said to be about the highest temperature. I could not bear to keep my hand in the water above a moment. The taste is that of salt, and the smell that of sulphur. The stones in the streams are dyed yellow and green. Vespasion pitched his tent near this village. We bathed in the lake, and found the water to be exceedingly cold, from the melting of the mountain snow. In little less than two hours' journey from the baths, we passed the village of Karak, situated upon a plain that in the rainy season is formed into an island, and soon afterwards arrived at the place where the Jordan issues from the lake, and begins its course towards the Dead Sea. It is a very rapid stream, and at that place is about 14 yards across. There are the remains of a bridge, but the stream is now passed by a crazy ferry-boat. Some horses were taken over as we were looking on, and there were several head of cattle on the other side. We did not venture over, as we were afraid that, if the people got us to the other side, they would be unwilling to bring us back again without extorting something as a present. At a little distance is the village of Semakh. The island, which appears to have been once covered with buildings, commands an extensive view. The valley of the Jordan extends to the horizon, and bears the marks of having been many times overflowed. It is cultivated, and appears to be extremely fertile. The lake can be seen from this place through its whole extent. It may be about 18 miles long, and in its widest part about 6 miles broad. The shape is irregular, something resembling a boy's kite or a bird flying. It is called in the Old Testament the sea of Chinnereth, and in the New, the sea of Tiberias, the sea of Galilee, and the lake of Gennesareth. Its appearance is striking, I promised myself a delicious draught, but on tastbut rather disappoints the traveller, as it differs ing it, I found that it was strongly impregnated entirely in its character from the beautiful imagi- with salt. Near it are three round buildings, that nations with which it is always associated. I we supposed from the distance were towers of could have wished to see more wood upon its defence, but on mounting to the top they proved shores, less ruggedness in the aspect of its moun- to be baths, with water in them, deep and clear. tains, and a greater softness and warmth in its We had some difficulty in crossing the next plain, general features. The mountains in some places on account of the great number of streams by come close to the water, and towards the north which it is intersected. The towns of Capernaum, we could discern a far higher chain, their dark | Bethsaida, and Chorazin, must have been in this sides, and still darker bases, presenting a fine con- direction, but travellers are not agreed as to their trast to the robe of snow in which their lofty sum- exact site. They were once exalted to heaven, mits were enveloped. The waters are clear, and but they heeded not the day of their visitation, were then perfectly still; but from their situation and they are now desolate. It is a solemn fact, between hills and ravines, they must be liable to the voice of which ought to be listened to with sudden squalls, and to great agitation during vio- attention, that there is no place mentioned lent gales. The expanse that unfolds itself from in the New Testament, as having rejected the this place is perhaps little changed since the time mission of the Saviour, or refused the offers of of our Lord. The works of man are imposing to- mercy made to it by himself and his disciples, or day, but in a little time they are deserted, and in as having afterwards become corrupt in life or ruin: temples, palaces, and even cities are des- doctrine, but bears evidence, in a degree beyond troyed, and no investigation can discover the spots all others, either in its history or present condiwhere they onced flourished, though the detail of tion, of the wrath of God: and as surely as the the events that took place within them may be denunciations of old were fulfilled against the familiar to our minds: but mountains and seas guilty cities that put out from their dwellings the have been named "everlasting," and as they look- candle of the Lord, so surely, we must remember, ed a thousand years gone by, so look they now. will still more awful threatenings be fulfilled It was upon this sea that our Lord sat in a boat, against us, if we neglect to profit by the light and thence taught the people standing upon the that shines at present so brightly upon the world. shore and what a sight it must have presented, to have seen the boat in the water, and the Prince of Life, and the listening multitude lining in rows the slopes of the ascent, as if in an immense amphitheatre, all so still that the little birds would not be frightened from their course in approaching the solemn audience, and the whole reflected upon the clear waters at their feet. On the opposite coast "the herd of swine ran violently down a steep place into the sea, and perished in the waters." It was upon this sea that Jesus walked, like a spirit, in the fourth watch of the night, when the wind was boisterous and the waves were high; and it was to these waters he spake, when he said in majesty," Peace, be still," and the rebuked wind ceased, and there was a great calm. Not a single boat is ever seen upon its surface in our day, and the fish that do not approach the land are never molested by any of the devices of man. Josephus tells us that the water of this lake was so cold, that it could not be warmed by setting in the sun, even in the hottest part of the year; but it has now lost this virtue, and in summer becomes warm and offensive. This lake was the scene of an engagement under Vespasian, in which some thousands were slain. We returned to Tiberias much pleased with our excursion, and remained all night in the church; but as I had only an oil-cloth under me, the cold from the stones would not allow me to enjoy my usual sound sleep. I was disappointed in not being able to procure animals to take me to Damascus, as I had intended to skirt the eastern coast of the sea, and examine some parts of the ancient Bashan. To the northward of Tiberias, on the shore of the lake, there are remains of buildings, but none of them worthy of description. At a little less than an hour from leaving the town, April 28, we crossed a stream of very clear water, from which We had intended to visit some extensive ruins northward of the plain, but our time would not allow of so long a digression as this would have required. Before we began to mount the hills, we passed a stream of water, broad but not deep, on the banks of which were many curious specimens of petrifaction. Branches of trees, reeds, grasses, and other substances, were firmly bound together, and in all, the change from the original character was complete, though the grain and fibres of the wood were perfectly retained. Soon after our commencement of the ascent, my companions, who were some distance behind me, saw on their left a large cave, and descended from their horses to explore it. I crossed over to meet them, when I heard a rustling in the grass, and they called out to me, but I was too distant to hear what they said. On coming up to them, I found that they had started a lion, when within a few feet of its lair, which sprang down the ravine, and plunged along the waters of the stream at the bottom, until they lost sight of it in the distance by the projection of a rock. They had so near a view of it, and saw it for so great a length of time, that they could not be mistaken, and the eye of Mr. T. is particularly keen. There were several places in the grass where a large animal had evidently rested, and near one of them the remains of some creature, about the size of a cat, which appeared to me to be more like a lion's cub than any other animal with which I am acquainted. We pursued our course towards the cave, but took the precaution to call first for our firearms. We descended to the bottom of the ravine, and had presented to us a scene of surpassing wildness. The principal cave is near a hundred feet high at the entrance, and is carried a considerable distance into the mountain, gradually decreasing in size as it proceeds. Near it, and within it, in all parts of the sides, are many other |