and shocks the mind. The cracking of a cart-whip at a female, the marking of human beings like cattle, are offensive to the imagination; but still not more so than the burning alive of women on funeral piles, or the massacre of hundreds of men by grape shot. Yet while Parliament caused to be printed voluminous schedules concerning the condition of the Tortola apprentices, with protocols of the dispute about Kate Hodge's hog, and Venus Acomki's goat, they refused even to look at the papers concerning the mutiny of Barrackpore. The zeal and industry of the saints are fine qualities; they make the most of their subjects, and if human attention, human time, and human benevolence were unlimited, they would be worthy of all praise; but as the world goes, there are few great subjects on which the same good qualities might not be much more usefully employed.

A WINTER IN LAPLAND.*

THE northernmost parts of Europe are so inaccurately known, and so seldom visited by intelligent travellers, that we should have felt grateful to Captain Brooke for his publications respecting them, were their contents less interesting and intrinsically valuable than they really are. As it is, the pleasure arising from novelty is superadded to the wholesome enjoyment experienced by the person who perceives that he has added to his stock of useful knowledge. The Winter in Lapland is in reality the second volume of Captain Brooke's former travels, and relates to a corner of the globe much less justly appreciated than the principal part of his earlier route. Finmark is the most northern extremity both of Norway and Sweden, which run up to the Polar ocean in a parallel direction, and are terminated in the snowy mountains, the clustering islands, and numerous inlets and fiords of the country, respecting which we propose, by the aid of Captain Brooke's work, to communicate some intelligence.

Captain Brooke established his head-quarters in Qualóèn, or Whale Island, (70° 38′ lat.) which is less than a degree from the North Cape. This island, about sixty miles in circumference, is formed by a lofty mountain, rising out of the sea, and the inhabitants are confined, by the nature of the country, to the coast, on which is the town of Hammerfest. The bay of Hammerfest is a very fine port, and the harbour wholly protected from every source of danger or annoyance to shipping. If one point only of likeness may authorize a comparison, Hammerfest is a sort of northern Venice; for there is no moving about without a boat. After the purchase of this necessary vehicle, Captain Brooke considered himself perfectly independent; for he could either fish, shoot, or pay visits, as he pleased, in the boat that was moored under his window and always ready at his command. At first Captain Brooke was lodged at Fuglenæs, a point on the opposite side of the bay to Hammerfest. This water he frequently crossed, and mentions a peculiarity of the northern seas which must render them a fruitful source of amusement. Fish and fishing are the staple of the Arctic regions; and the transparency of the water is such, that the fishermen

A Winter in Lapland and Sweden, with various Observations relating to Finmark and its Inhabitants, made during a Residence at Hummerfest, near the North Cape, by Arthur de Capell Brooke, M.A., F.R.S., &c.

are enabled to ply their trade at an extraordinary advantage. In the following extract, Captain Brooke enumerates the fish usually seen in the water; and describes the manner in which, availing themselves of this circumstance, the fishermen catch the plaice.

The waters of the bay, which deepen gradually to about twenty fathoms, possess all the transparency for which the Northern Ocean is so remarkable, as has been already noticed. The passage from Fuglenes to Hammerfest was, on this account, exceedingly interesting, when the weather was calm, the watery regions presenting a scene of as much life and animation as those above. A few feet below the boat, shoals of smaa torsk (young cod) eagerly snapped at the dangling hook; the middle depth was generally occupied by the larger sey, or coal-fish, (gadus carbonarius ;) while at the bottom, huge plaice, (pleuronectes platesa, Linn.) or the enormous queite or halibut (p. hippoglossus,) was frequently seen stretched on the white sand. In some parts, the bottom was thickly studded with echini of all hues and sizes, some being of a delicate pea-green, others of a reddish colour, and many of a deep purple. In other parts, where the bottom was composed of a fine white sand, innumerable star-fish (asteria) might be seen, extending their rays. Some of these that I succeeded in drawing up, were very large, exceeding in circumference a full-sized plaice. Very few shells indeed were to be observed, the northern shores, from their nature, being particularly barren of testacea.

The manner in which the large plaice are taken here, renders this kind of fishing more entertaining than any other. When the weather is calm, and the surface of the water unruffled, the fisherman provides himself with a strong fine cord, a few fathoms in length, to which is attached a small sharp-pointed spear-head, with double-barbs, similar to a whale harpoon, and heavily loaded, to carry it with the greater force and velocity to the bottom. This is held by the harpooner, ready over the bow of the boat, whilst a second person paddles it forward as slowly as possible, in order that the former may be enabled to discover the fish at the bottom, which, as they are found generally on the clear white sand, are thus more easily discovered. As soon as a fish is seen, the boat is stopped, and the harpooner suspending the line, drops the harpoon close to the stern of the boat, which is brought exactly over the fish. This, being firmly transfixed by the force the harpoon acquires in its descent,* is then drawn up to the surface. By these means I have known a boat loaded in the short space of a couple of hours. Halibut are but seldom taken in this way, being found at depths too great to admit of the effectual descent of the harpoon, which is used with the greatest advantage in two or three fathoms water. These, which are caught by means of hooks, sometimes attain the enormous size of 500 lbs. weight, or even more, and instances have been known of their upsetting the boat, when they have been incautiously drawn up, without being dispatched.

At the time our traveller was at Qualóén island, the bay and port of Hammerfest were by no means unfrequented by merchant vessels. Besides four from Bremen and Flensberg, three from Drontheim and Nordland, and one hundred and fifty Russians from the White Sea, Captain Brooke found two fine English brigs, taking in cargoes of stockfish for Holland and the Mediterranean. These vessels were chartered by a Mr. Crowe, who is the grand means of communication between the inhabitants of this remote district and the civilized world, and seems to have discovered an exceedingly snug and profitable trade. The inhabitants depend upon him for all manufactured goods, and the ladies are especially indebted to him for every article of exterior dress and ornament. The fair sex of Hammerfest are peculiarly gay in their attire; and Captain Brooke observes, that no one would imagine from their appearance, ease of manner, and dress, that they inhabited an obscure part of the world several degrees beyond the Polar circle. It may easily be supposed, that at Hammerfest there is not a more

*This is an odd blunder for an F.R.S. The resistance of the water partly destroys the force communicated by the hand, and diminishes the influence of gravity. No force is acquired in the descent; and Captain Brooke might have learned this from the fact he afterwards states, that the halebut lies too deep for this kind of fishing. The resistance of the water then destroys the communicated force.-ED.

popular character than the English merchant. His annual departure, at the close of the year, is accompanied with tears; and his return, in the succeeding summer, looked forward to with the most lively anxiety by the females of Hammerfest.

The Laps of Finmark may be divided into two classes-the fishing or shore Laplanders, and the rein-deer or mountain Laplanders. The latter live during the winter in the mountains, and in the summer they invariably seek the coast. The interior part of Lapland, especially its boundless forests, abounds with insects, so that it is not possible for any animal to remain there in summer The Laps are moreover led to the shore under the idea that a draught of salt water is necessary for the welfare of their deer. When the deer descend from the mountains and come within sight of the sea, they hasten forward with one accord, and drink eagerly of the salt water, though they are never observed to apply to it afterwards.

In a country where nature lias so few charms, or rather where her features are so rugged, and all her ways so stern, it is to be supposed that the resources of the inhabitants are of a social kind. If jovial drinking and good-natured chat may be called social, the natives of Qualoén may challenge the world for this virtue. Captain Brooke's chamber, at Fuglenæs, every night resounded with the notes of mirth and merriment. The many little articles of British manufacture which are always turned out of the baggage of an English traveller, and which usually lie about his room, with his sketches and his books, were objects of general admiration. Notwithstanding the interruption which this caused to his pursuits, Captain Brooke states, that the goodhumour and honest frankness of these people, made him willingly submit to the inconvenience. The following is a lively picture of a jolly evening, and proves pretty clearly that " Old Norway" understands even better than "Merry England," did in her old days, how to push about the bowl, which, by an excusable blunder, is in songs usually called "soul inspiring."

One evening the whole small society of Hammerfest would come intheir boats to drink punch, and smoke their pipes at the Red House; and this number being swelled by the captains of the different vessels, the party was consequently pretty numerous. My little room then resounded with loud effusions of hearts unacquainted with care, and little anxious about what the morrow would produce. These drinking bouts were conducted with such spirit, that it reminded me of the good old days, when our ancestors were in like manner worthy disciples of Anacreon, and would have caused a blush in the cheeks of the degenerate water-drinkers of the present age. They were in fact so determined, that many a head far stronger than my own would have sunk in the conflict; and I really despaired, that any exertions, however great on my part, during my short residence, could render me a worthy companion to such men as Foged, Meyer, Aasgaard, or Jentof. The first of these was a giant, with powers unrivalled in Finmark. Enveloped in smoke, and swallowing streams of liquid fire, the sheriff was in fact the soul of every party; and his arrival at Hammerfest from Alten, where his presence was frequently required from his high office, was the speedy forerunner of a succession of jovial parties. At these, the only liquor drunk is punch, wine being almost unknown in Finmark; except that occasionally a few bottles of a villainous black compound find their way from Bremen or Flensburg, and enabling those who can afford to drink it to form no other idea of that wine, the name of which it bears, than what its colour may suggest. This, however, is rarely the case, as the merchants wisely prefer their own native liquor; and in the making of this the ladies of every family are so skilful, that having once tasted the nectar which flows from their hands, it is scarcely possible to resist temptation. They neverthless do not participate farther in these ceremonies, than entering occasionally to replenish the bowls. These bouts in summer-time commence generally about six o'clock, and in winter about four,

and are carried on without intermission till after midnight. Every one brings his pipe; without this he would be miserable, and not even the punch could make him feel comfortable. The room is presently filled with smoke so dense, that it is difficult to distinguish persons.

Most of the company during this time are deeply engaged, each with his pipe in his mouth, at their favourite game of whist; while the remainder pace the room with slow and measured steps. Now the first toast is announced by the master of the house, which is Gammel Norge, "Old Norway!" The effect produced is electrical; the whole party instantaneously rise, the capacious glasses are filled to the brim; every one then touches with his own glass the top of each in the room, which is called klinking, and is similar to our old-fashioned custom of hob-nobbing; and the contents are drank off, and smoking resumed, till the national song of Norway is commenced, and sung in loud chorus by all with the greatest enthusiasm.

The national song is highly characteristic of the manners of the country. It describes the three modes of life which a settler in Finmark may follow, and the blessings which may attend each. Should I, says the song, dwell on the lofty mountains, where the Laplander, in his snow skates, shoots the rein-deer, and the ptarmigan flutters on the heath, these would be sufficient for my wants-with them would I buy wine, and pay my expenses."

The summit of the rock which bears the pine

Is the free town of jovial souls.

In the green valley, where there are rivers and sheep and lambs, "that play, and nibble leaves," and oxen-and where wealth increases fast, there would he laugh at the "boastings of fashion," (meaning, we presume, the boasting of merchants, sailors, and fishermen, who talk of the large towns they have seen, and the big churches,) and sitting safely on his grassy sod, empty his goblet to friendship.

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If, again, he should live on the naked beach, on a rocky islet abounding with eggs, in the midst of the rolling sea, where flocks of birds pursue the herring, sprat, and morten, then he says, if he gets such a draught of fish that his boat is so full of roe, that it is in a fair way of sinking, that then he is happy, rich, and satisfied. At the mention of fish, all the hearers shout, for upon it the welfare of Finmark depends. Long may fish swim!" is the cry of the song, and the "fishery" are drunk with loud acclamation. "Long may fish swim!" sounds in their ears like "Britons never shall be slaves" in ours. The cry of fish speaks to them of enjoyments as sincere, and perhaps of the very same kind as the cry of liberty with us. It all ends in a good dinner, and a pleasant evening by the fire-side. That which is the most essential, is the most classical; and though the idea of blubber is by no means among our most refined reflections, yet it carries emotions of the most tender kind to the heart of the Laplander. When the Briton indignantly repels the notion of slavery, and glories in ruling the waves, he, were his meaning closely analyzed, would be found to intend nothing more than that he hoped he should not be disturbed in the possession of such comforts as have fallen to his share. Slavery carries with it hard work and hard fare; and ruling the waves implies, keeping off intruders, and bringing home pleasant merchandize. As the jovial Lap roars out over a particularly strong bowl, of punch, and with a countenance shining like the best whale oil, Long may fish swim! that was the toast

On which I took my glass,

Sang and drank, Long may the fisheries flourish!

we presume he means much the same thing.

Tea is generally taken at the commencement of these entertainments, says Captain Brooke, and about three hours afterwards the mellem mad is served. This, which means the middle meal, and is merely a kind of interlude, is brought in on a tray, and handed round to all, consisting of brandy, smoked salmon or halibut, with sandwiches made of thin slices of German sausages. It proves not the least interruption to what is going forward; and about ten o'clock the aftens mad, or supper, is announced, upon which the party retire to an adjoining room, to partake of it. The aftens mad consists almost invariably of a large dish of boiled fish, accompanied in summer by a reen stek, or piece of rein-deer venison, roasted, and eaten with the jam of the preserved möltæbar, or cloud-berry, (rubus chamamorus,) and different pickles. Nothing but punch is drunk during this time, and the cloth being removed, the bowls are replenished, and the carousal seldom ends before midnight. These evenings are diversified by balls, when the only difference is, that females and a violin are introduced. The violin is a great favourite; some member of every family plays upon it, and thus the darling amusement of dancing is always to be had with ease. The usual dances are the waltz, the polsk, the national dance, and the hopska, which resembles our country dance, except that it possesses a greater variety of figures. In this way were Captain Brooke's apartments occupied nearly every night during the time he remained at Fuglenæs.

The mountain Laplander, who is a very different person from the Norwegian settlers, among whom Captain Brooke lived, generally commences his migration from the interior to the coast in June. The snow is by that time off the ground, he consequently no longer travels in sledges, but deposits them and all his winter necessaries in the storehouse near his church, in the neighbourhood he occupies during the winter. The coast of Norway is preferred for summer residence to that of the Gulf of Bothnia, though that may in some instances be more distant from the freshness of the breezes and its freedom from insects. The principal object is the health of the deer-on his flock of rein-deer the existence of the mountain Lap depends-it is his fortune. Where they are likely to do well, and where he stands a chance of catching fish for his summer support, there the Fieldfinner, as he is called, pitches his rude tent.

The mountain Lap is, for the most part, wild and savage, both in appearance and habit. There is a ruggedness about him, which, if not properly softened by a glass of brandy, or a present of tobacco, is repulsive. He takes, however, the gift as a token of good intentions, and is then ready and willing to perform any service within his power. His costume is sufficiently like his neighbour, the bear-what nature does for one a very rude kind of art does for the other. The husk is considerably thicker than the kernel. The Lap is principally clothed in rein-deer fur; leather and woollen are resorted to, to supply the interstices. With linen, Laplanders are totally unacquainted. Stockings they have none: the women thrust soft dried grass into their shoes, and for the more effectual exclusion of the cold, wear breeches.

The Laplanders generally are of a diminutive race, though it is remarkable that the more northern tribes exceed in stature those of the