AUTHOR'S PREFACE. xxi of the world, engaged my mind during the whole time of my stay among them. The Russians, viewed as a body, appeared to me as being great, even in their most shocking vices; viewed as individuals, I considered them amiable. In the character of the common people I found much to interest: these flattering truths ought, I think, to compensate for others less agreeable. But, hitherto, the Russians have been treated as spoiled children by the greater number of travellers. If the discordances that one cannot help remarking in their social state, if the spirit of their government, essentially opposed to my ideas and habits, have drawn from me reproaches, and even cries of indignation, my praises, equally voluntary, must have the greater weight. But these Orientals, habituated as they are to breathe and dispense the most direct incense of flattery, will be sensible to nothing but blame. All disapprobation appears to them as treachery; they call every severe truth a falsehood; they will not perceive the delicate admiration that may sometimes lurk under my apparent criticisms the regret and, on some occasions, the sympathy that accompany my most severe remarks. If they have not converted me to their religions, (they have several, and among these, political religion is not the least intolerant,) if, on the contrary, they have modified my monarchical ideas in a way that is opposed to despotism and favourable to representative government, they will be offended simply because I am not of their opinion. I regret that such is the case, but I prefer regret to remorse. If I were not resigned to their injustice, I should xxii AUTHOR'S PREFACE. not print these chapters. Besides, though they may complain of me in words, they will absolve me in their consciences: this testimony will be sufficient for me. Every honest Russian will admit that if I have committed errors of detail for want of time to rectify my impressions, I have described Russia in general, as it really is. They will make allowance for the difficulties which I have had to conquer, and will give me credit for the quickness with which I have discerned the advantageous traits of their primitive character under the political mask that has disfigured it for so many ages. The facts of which I have been witness are recorded precisely as they passed before my eyes; those which were related to me, are given as I received them; I have not endeavoured to deceive the reader by substituting myself for the persons whom I consulted. If I have abstained from naming, or in any way indicating these persons, my discretion will undoubtedly be appreciated; it is one proof more of the degree of confidence which the enlightened individuals deserve to whom I thus ventured to address myself for information respecting certain facts that it was impossible for me to observe personally. It is superfluous to add that I have only cited those to which the character and position of the men from whom I had them, gave, in my eyes, an unquestionable stamp of authority. Aided by my scrupulous exactitude, the reader may judge for himself of the degree of authority that should be ascribed to these secondary facts, which, it may be further observed, occupy but a very small place in my narrations. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. Arrival of the Hereditary Grand Duke of Russia at Ems. Character of Russian Courtiers. The Person of the Grand Duke.-His Father and Uncle at the same Age.- His Equipages and Suite. Superiority of the English in all Character and Progress of German Civilization. — Prussian Protestantism. — Music a Means of Education.—Prussia the Auxiliary of Russia. — Luther the Personification of German Character. French Minister at Berlin. - Anecdote of the Empress Catherine. - Anecdote of the Convention of Pilnitz. -Family Memoirs. -Souvenirs of the Revolution.—General CHAPTER III. Providential Concealment of her Papers. — Devotion of - rogation of Madame de Custine.—Inspires one of her Judges with the Desire of saving her. The Means which he uses during Six Months to retard her Execution. - End of the Reign of Terror. — Character of Robespierre. — The Prisons after his Fall. — Petition of Nanette. — Extraordinary Deli- verance of Madame de Custine. Returns to her House. Sickness and Poverty. Noble Conduct of Jerome. after History. Journey of Madame de Custine to Switzer- Conversation at Lubeck on Peculiarities in the Russian Cha- racter. Journey from Berlin to Lubeck.—Imaginary Evils. Travemunde. Character of Northern Landscapes. Holstein Fishermen. — Sublimity of Flat Scenery. — Nights of the North. It is Civilization which heightens Admiration of the Scenes of Nature. - The Steppes of Russia. — Burn- ing of the Steamer Nicholas I. -Road from Schwerin to CHAPTER V. Montesquieu and his System. Scenery of the North. Flatness of the Earth's Surface near the Pole. Shores of Finland. Melancholy of Northern People. Prince K. - Definitions of Nobility. The English Nobility. Freedom of Speech. — Canning. — Napoleon. - Confidential Conversation. — Glance at Russian History. Institutions and Spirit of Chivalry unknown in Russia. The Nature of an Autocracy.- Politics and Religion are identical in Russia. - Future Influence of Russia. - Fate of Paris. Prince and Princess D— The Cold-Water Cure. Good Manners of the Higher Orders in Russia. — Society in France before the Revolution. A Modern Frenchman of the Middle Classes. His mauvais Ton. Agreeable Society on the Steam-Boat. - Russian National Tragedy of Baron de Sternberg. - Type of Lord Byron's Parallel between Sir W. Scott and Byron. Historical Romance. Marriage of Peter the Great. Romodanowski. — Influence of the Greek Church in Russia. - Tyranny supported by Falsehood. Corpse in the Church CHAPTER VII. - - The Russian Marine. Remark of Lord Durham's. - Great Efforts for small Results. -The Amusements of Despotism. - Kronstadt. - Russian Custom-House. Gloomy Aspect of Nature. Recollections of Rome. English Poetical Name for Ships of War. - Object of Peter the Great. -The Finns. - Batteries of Kronstadt. - Abject Character of the Lower Classes of Russian Employés. — Inquisitions of the Police, and the Custom-House. - Sudden Change in the CHAPTER VIII. - - Approach to Petersburg by the Neva. - Incongruity between the Climate and Aspect of the Country and the Style of Architecture. Absurd Imitation of the Monuments of Greece. - The Custom-House and Police. Inquisitorial Examination. Difficulties of Landing. Appearance of the Streets. Statue of Peter the Great. — The Winter Palace. Rebuilt in one Year. The Means employed.— Russian Despotism.-Citation from Herberstein. — Karam- - |