เ

'Clothes, as in all other external things whatsoever, no fashion 'will continue.

Of the military classes in those old times, whose buff belts, 'complicated chains and gorgets, huge churn-boots, and other 'riding and fighting gear have been bepainted in modern Ro'mance, till the whole has acquired somewhat of a sign-post haracter, I shall here say nothing: the civil and pacific classes, less touched upon, are wonderful enough for us.

Rich men, find, have Teusinke' (a perhaps untranslateable article); also a silver girdle, whereat hang little bells; so that 'when a man walks it is with continual jingling. Some few, of 'musical turn, have a whole chime of bells (Glockenspiel) fastened 'there; which especially, in sudden wirls, and the other acci'dents of walking, has a grateful effect. Observe too how fond The male 'they are of peaks, and Gothic-arch intersections. 'world wears peaked caps, an ell long, which hang bobbing over the side (schief) their shoes are peaked in front, also to the 'length of an ell, and laced on the side with tags; even the 'wooden shoes have their ell-long noses; some also clap bells on 'the peak. Further, according to my authority, the men have 'breeches without seat (ohne Gesäss): these they fasten peakwise 'to their shirts; and the long round doublet must overlap 'them.

'Rich maidens, again, flit abroad in gowns scolloped out be 'hind and before, so that back and breast are almost bare. Wives of quality, on the other hand, have train-gowns four or five ells in length; which trains there are boys to carry. Brave Cleo'patras, sailing in their silk-cloth Galley, with a Cupid for 'steersman! Consider their welts, a handbreadth thick, which 6 waver round them by way of hem; the long flood of silver but'tons, or rather silver shells, from throat to shoe, wherewith 'these same welt-gowns are buttoned. The maidens have bound 'silver snoods about their hair, with gold spangles, and pendent 'flames (Flammen), that is, sparkling hair-drops: but of their 'mother's headgear who shall speak? Neither in love of grace 'is comfort forgotten. In winter weather you behold the whole 'fair creation (that can afford it) in long mantles, with skirts wide below, and, for hem, not one but two sufficient handbroad

'welts; all ending atop in a thick well-starched Ruff, some 'twenty inches broad: these are their Ruff-mantles (Kragen'mäntel).

6 As

yet among the womankind hoop-petticoats are not; but the 'men have doublets of fustian, under which lie multiple ruffs of 'cloth, pasted together with batter (mit Teig zusammengekleistert), 'which create protuberance enough. Thus do the two sexes vie 'with each other in the art of Decoration; and as usual the 'stronger carries it.'

Our Professor, whether he have Humour himself or not, manifests a certain feeling of the Ludicrous, a sly observance of it, which, could emotion of any kind be confidently predicated of so still a man, we might call a real love. None of those bell-girdles, bushel-breeches, cornuted shoes or other the like phenomena, of which the History of Dress offers so many, escape him; more especially the mischances, or striking adventures, incident to the wearers of such, are noticed with due fidelity. Sir Walter Raleigh's fine mantle, which he spread in the mud under Queen Elizabeth's feet, appears to provoke little enthusiasm in him; he merely asks, Whether at that period the Maiden Queen 'was red'painted on the nose, and white-painted on the cheeks, as her 'tirewomen, when from spleen and wrinkles she would no longer 'look in any glass, were wont to serve her?' We can answer that Sir Walter knew well what he was doing, and had the Maiden Queen been stuffed parchment died in verdigris, would have done the same.

Thus too, treating of those enormous habiliments, that were not only slashed and galooned, but artificially swollen out on the broader parts of the body, by introduction of Bran, our Professor fails not to comment on that luckless Courtier, who having seated himself on a chair with some projecting nail on it, and therefrom rising, to pay his devoir on the entrance of Majesty, instantaneously emitted several pecks of dry wheat-dust and stood there diminished to a spindle, his galoons and slashes dangling sorrowful and flabby round him. Whereupon the Professor publishes this reflection :

6

By what strange chances do we live in History! Erostra-↓ tus by a torch; Milo by a bullock; Henry Darnley, an unfledged

booby and bustard, by his limbs; most Kings and Queens by 'being born under such and such a bed-tester; Boileau Des'preaux (according to Helvetius) by the peck of a turkey; and 'this ill-starred individual by a rent in his breeches,—for no Me'moirist of Kaiser Otto's Court omits him. Vain was the prayer ' of Themistocles for a talent of Forgetting my Friends, yield 'cheerfully to Destiny, and read since it is written.'-Has Teufelsdröckh to be put in mind that, nearly related to the impossible talent of Forgetting, stands that talent of Silence, which even travelling Englishmen manifest?

The simplest costume,' observes our Professor,' which I any'where find alluded to in History, is that used as regimental, by 'Bolivar's Cavalry, in the late Columbian wars. A square 'Blanket, twelve feet in diagonal, is provided (some were wont to 'cut off the corners, and make it circular): in the centre a slit is 'effected eighteen inches long; through this the mother-naked 'Trooper introduces his head and neck; and so rides shielded 'from all weather, and in battle from many strokes (for he rolls 'it about his left arm); and not only dressed, but harnessed and 'draperied.'

With which picture of a State of Nature, affecting by its singularity, and Old-Roman contempt of the superfluous, we shall quit this part of our subject.

15*

CHAPTER VIII.

THE WORLD OUT OF CLOTHES.

IF in the Descriptive-Historical Portion of this Volume, Teufelsdröckh, discussing merely the Werden (Origin and successive Improvement) of Clothes, has astonished many a reader, much more will he in the Speculative-Philosophical Portion, which treats of their Wirken or Influences. It is here that the present Editor first feels the pressure of his task; for here properly the higher and new Philosophy of Clothes commences: an untried, almost inconceivable region, or chaos; in venturing upon which, how difficult, yet how unspeakably important is it to know what course, of survey and conquest, is the true one; where the footing is firm substance and will bear us, where it is hollow, or mere cloud, and may engulf us! Teufelsdröckh undertakes no less than to expound the moral, political, even religious Influences of Clothes; he undertakes to make manifest, in its thousandfold bearings, this grand Proposition, that Man's earthly interests ' are all hooked and buttoned together, and held up, by Clothes.' He says in so many words, 'Society is founded upon Cloth;' and again, 'Society sails through the Infinitude on Cloth, as on a 'Faust's Mantle, or rather like the Sheet of clean and unclean 'beasts in the Apostle's Dream; and without such Sheet or Mantle, 'would sink to endless depths, or mount to inane limboes, and in 'either case be no more.'

By what chains, or indeed infinitely complected tissues, of Meditation this grand Theorem is here unfolded, and innumerable practical Corollaries are drawn therefrom, it were perhaps a mad ambition to attempt exhibiting. Our Professor's method is not, in any case, that of common school Logic, where the truths all stand in a row, each holding by the skirts of the other; but at best that of practical Reason, proceeding by large Intuition over

whole systematic groups and kingdoms; whereby, we might say, a noble complexity, almost like that of Nature, reigns in his Philosophy, or spiritual Picture of Nature: a mighty maze, yet as faith whispers, not without a plan. Nay we complained above, that a certain ignoble complexity, what we must call mere confusion, was also discernible. Often, also, we have to exclaim: Would to Heaven those same Biographical Documents were come! For it seems as if the demonstration lay much in the Author's individuality; as if it were not Argument that had taught him, but Experience. At present it is only in local glimpses, and by significant fragments, picked often at wide enough intervals from the original Volume, and carefully collated, that we can hope to impart some outline or foreshadow of this Doctrine. Readers of any intelligence are once more invited to favour us with their most concentrated attention: let these, after intense consideration, and not till then, pronounce, Whether on the utmost verge of our actual horizon there is not a looming as of Land; a promise of new Fortunate Islands, perhaps whole undiscovered Americas, for such as have canvass to sail thither?As exordium to the whole, stand here the following long citation:

With men of a speculative turn,' writes Teufelsdröckh, 'there come seasons, meditative, sweet, yet awful hours, when in wonder 'and fear you ask yourself that unanswerable question: Who am 'I; the thing that can say "I" (das Wesen das sich Ich nennt)? The world, with its loud trafficking, retires into the distance; and through the paper hangings, and stone-walls, and thick-plied 'tissues of Commerce and Polity, and all the living and lifeless 'integuments (of Society and a Body), wherewith your Existence 'sits surrounded, the sight reaches forth into the void Deep, and you are alone with the Universe, and silently commune with it as one mysterious Presence with another.

Who am I; what is this ME? A Voice, a Motion, an Ap'pearance ;- -some embodied, visualised Idea in the Eternal 'Mind? Cogito, ergo sum. Alas, poor Cogitator, this takes us 'but a little way. Sure enough I am; and lately was not: but 'Whence? How? Whereto? The answer lies around, written ' in all colours and motions, uttered in all tones of jubilee and